The Sail (Ladja, the boat) is a big alpine classic,
one of the "grande course", in the Triglav N face Central Pillar.
Up to the Gorenjski Turnc tower it is the lower part of the Skalaska route (Pavla Jesih, Milan Gostisa, 1929)
and from there on, the upper part of the Gorenjska route (Joza Cop, Miha Potocnik, Stanko Tominsek, 1928).
The route is 1000m tall.
Getting ThereThe approach starts at the Aljazev dom hut (parking lot).
Hut info: Triglav main page
Follow the Prag marked route until the source and then the slighter path heading for the base of the Central Pillar (1 hour+).
Route DescriptionA big ledge crosses the foot of the central pillar.
We follow it to the right (100m). After the tower, we take advantage of a ledge to the left,
leading to a notch behind the tower (II).
From the notch, we climb straight up the cracks (IV+); behind the scale, we pass by the needle from the left (IV).
The following traverse to the left is uneasy at first, allthough only III and leads to a small basin.
We now climb the cracked slabs to the right (V-), then a set of stairs (IV), winding up in a gully (II) below the Loaf.
The next four or five pitches (II-III) follow the perfectly exposed ledge to the left, ending with the ascent (IV) of an edgy
tower (the Black ravine appears to our left). We must now climb the next tower (Gorenjski Turnc) by first going
over the ridge to our right (III+), then rejoining the saddle (IV) straight up above (gully).
Half time.
Above the saddle, there are two chimneys. Starting with the chimney to the right, then crossing over to the left one (IV),
we rejoin the true edge of the buttress. The next pitches (III, IV, II) lead straight up to a ledge at the foot of the crux.
The Sail pitch (V+): we follow the crack up to the overhang, slightly traverse to the left (well protected),
and continue with the broad crack to the right (V-).
It is now not much of a problem (II, III), but long (200m),
and sometimes a little loose to the summit of the Cental Pillar.
Info: Slovenske Stene
Descent: -to the W : the Plemenice (Bambergova) marked and secured route to the Luknja notch, etc.
-to the E: the Kugy ledge towards Kredarica hut.
Essential GearThe route is equipped with pitons.
We still don't go for such a climb without additional pitons, a couple of cams,
and enough slings for comfortable rope management.
External LinksTine Mihelic: Slovene Walls ( Slovenske stene ) in Slovene, including excellent topos by Ales Dolenc.
Triglav: mountain-hiking map (1:25000) Images
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Alpine Climbs in Slovenia
