| Aschenbrenner, Debeljak Variant Route |
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| Aschenbrenner, Debeljak Variant   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.43147°N / 13.71180°E Route Type: Trad Climbing Season: Summer Time Required: Most of a day Rock Difficulty: 5.10b (YDS) Difficulty: UIAA: VI+, 800m Number of Pitches: 25 Grade: IV
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| Page By: seppl Created/Edited: Nov 3, 2008 / Oct 6, 2009 Object ID: 460128 Hits: 743 Loading... Page Score: 87.51% - 7 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
The opening of the 800m tall Travnik N wall in 1934 by Paul Aschenbrenner and Hermann Tiefenbrunner is a historical event.
Ciril Debeljak and Marjan Perko found their Way in the wall in 1950.
The route is a natural solution to the wall; the climbing in the central part of the wall is pure pleasure.Getting ThereGetting to the Tamar hut:
From the Ratece (Ratece Planica) bus stop to the Tamar hut it's a 1,5 hour hike, following the road.
First head for the Planica ski jumps then follow the road and/or the marked path towards the Tamar hut.
The hut is open all year long. Tel: (386)(0)4 587 6055
From the Tamar hut, we follow the marked Black Waters (Crne vode) path towards Sleme.
Continue up the gully as the path turns left.
The next gully to follow is the one to the right.
The slopes between and above the gullies are made of sometimes very steep grass and conglomerating scree (2 hours).Route DescriptionAim for the cave. The first pitch is a tricky slab (IV).
We enter now a cave-like situation, go straight forward (II, IV-),
then circle down to the left towards a comfortable ledge.
Traverse (IV), then go one ledge higher. Continue traversing (I, V) until we reach the bottom of an evident chimney.
We leave the chimney (IV, V-) in the middle of its second pitch, to the right after the chock,
and continue straight up (IV+) to a ledge below the main wall.
Traverse (V-) to the left and pass the straight up original Aschenbrenner.
One 60m pitch, first to the left and then straighter up (VI+, V+) is the crux. Be careful with rope management.
We are now at the start of four magnificent pitches (VI, V) following a crack slightly to the right,
up to the yellow bunker.
We choose now to climb the overhang towards the right (VI), allthough it looks wobbly, then resuming left to a basin.
The next three pitches follow a dihedral-ledge (Rampa) leftwards, beginning with an exposed and not so easy IV+.
We top the ledge on its outside, arriving in a very large basin.
On the inside (to the right) a large chimney (III) leads to the next big ledge.
From here on the original route (and Debeljak's Variant) continues up the gully-chimney,
but let us (often in use) continue to the left along the ledge until reaching the ridge which we then follow to the summit.
The descent follows the Mojstrovke ridge. From Mala Mojstrovka we may choose to rejoin Tamar or Vrsic. (2,5 to 3 hours).
Essential GearThe route is equipped with pegs.
We still don't go for such a climb without enough reserve pegs, a couple of cams (medium to small),
and enough slings for comfortable rope management.
External LinksTine Mihelic: Slovene Walls ( Slovenske stene ) in Slovene, including excellent topos(esquisses) by Ales Dolenc.
Zvonko´s Picasa Photo Gallery ! Images
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