Overview
The Spik N wall is 900m tall.
The Spik Direct was opened in 1926 by Mira Marko Debelak and Stane Tominsek.
The lower half of the route (up to the Dibona ledge) is the first part of the Dibona route,
opened by Anna Escher and Angelo Dibona in 1924.
Getting ThereFrom the Gozd Martuljek bus stop to the scree grounds Pod Spikom, it's a 2 hour hike, along a marked and secured path.
The bivouac is signalized by cairns towards the right, in the woods at the end of the marked path.
Now freely ascend the scree towards the foot of the wall (20min).
Route DescriptionWe scramble (II) up the gully to the top of the green head, leaving the gully before its end, to the right towards
the upper trees and then back left.
A set of bushy gendarmes now separates us from the main wall. We scramble (III) around and across them from the left side,
including brief down climbing before arriving to a grassy saddle.
The next gullies and short chimneys guide us towards the left, avoiding difficulties to the right and to the left,
and we then attain the Dibona ledge (the Dibona route continues to the right).
Right above the ledge, start in a dihedral diagonaly to the right (not the evident one straight up).
We now follow the cracks (IV), avoiding the overhang to the right, until a steep slab. We avoid the slab,
traversing to the left. Now again upwards, zigzaging from one large chimney to the next until we reach a ledge.
Up to here, orientation might have been an issue, but the difficulties did not exceed IV.
We start up the crack to the left (IV), crossing then below the overhang to the right. Now follow the dihedral (V),
then around the rib to the left (IV) and up to a ledge. We climb the fresh looking slab (IV+), exiting to the right.
The next five superb pitches (V+/V) follow the evident dihedral which transforms into a chimney system.
Exit to the left and scramble along the gully to the summit ridge.
Descents:
Krnica
Kacji graben
Essential GearThe route is equipped with pegs.
We still don't go for such a climb without enough reserve pegs, a couple of cams (medium to small), and enough slings for comfortable rope management.External LinksTine Mihelic: Slovene Walls ( Slovenske stene ) in Slovene, including excellent topos by Ales Dolenc.
GURS for the 1:25000 map "Kranjska Gora"
Mountain Guides Association Photo Gallery Images
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Julian Alps
