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| East Side Dream   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.35270°N / 14.59208°E Route Type: Trad Climbing Season: Summer Time Required: Most of a day Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS) Difficulty: UIAA: V+/ III, 750m Number of Pitches: 17 Grade: IV
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| Page By: Borut Kantušer Created/Edited: Nov 7, 2008 / Oct 6, 2009 Object ID: 461596 Hits: 485 Loading... Page Score: 87.69% - 7 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
The line is S shaped and bright when seen from a distance.
Except for three pitches (IV+, V+, V) it's more of a scramble, up a 750m tall face.
The lower part folllows a thin gully, a slit through the green stuff.
Above the Chamois Ledges (a route traversing the entire E face from the middle of the Bos Gully to the middle of the Neck (Sija), we follow a "ridge", a rib made of three successive towers.
Opened on Aug 17, 2003 by Borut Kantuser and Stefan Mlinarič, and barely advertised until now, the route has no (known) repeats.Getting ThereThe bus coming from Ljubljana (via Kamnik) leaves us off at its end stop: the Kamniska Bistrica trailhead at the source of
the Kamniska Bistrica. We now follow the road to the right of the Hut (open all year long except on mondays),
cross the Sedelscek bridge and follow indications towards Kamnisko Sedlo (the Kamnik Saddle).
At the Altitude of 1500m along the marked and secured path from the Kamniska Bistrica trailhead to the Kamnisko Sedlo Hut,
we arrive at the Pastirji meadow (shelter). At this point we cross straight over to the left and arrive at the start of the climb.
Route DescriptionThe first pitch (IV+) starts to the right of an ugly chimney. Belay 1 is in a cosy alcove. Now stick to the right of the slit.
The next pitches (III, II, I) follow the slit, a polished white gully through the bushes, and then take to the right of
small gendarmes till arriving to a comfortable ledge.
We now start in the corner (to the inside of the pillar). The pitch offers V+ cracked slab climbing on good rock
but with uneasy cam placement.
We now scramble to the foot of the next rib. Belay.
Briefly follow the small ledge which runs off in the wall to the left; carefully cross (upwards) the overhanging tumor of
loose rock (V) and continue up the slab (good rock). We continue to the top of the rib (III).
The difficult part is now over.
Scramble to the left of the next pillar, then up the left bank (the right side, looking up) of the big gully. As we leave the gully to the right (doted line
on the primary image), a not to steep white chimney gets us climbing again (III+). After this last hurdle, the nearness of the summit can be felt.
To the right, a nice chimney (IV-) may be added to the final walk up among boulders.
Essential GearThe route is not equiped.
60m
3 cams (2 medium small ones, 1 medium)
6 ordinary pegs (two sizes)
3 profiles (V or U pegs)
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