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| Labirint   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.39312°N / 13.87505°E Route Type: Trad Climbing Season: Summer Time Required: A long day Rock Difficulty: 5.10b (YDS) Difficulty: UIAA: VI+/ IV-V, 300m (+550m) Number of Pitches: 10 Grade: IV
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| Page By: megla Created/Edited: Nov 13, 2008 / Nov 28, 2009 Object ID: 463243 Hits: 1886  Loading... Page Score: 88.51% - 13 Votes  Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewIn the N face, Labyrinth (Labirint) solved the central part of the summital wall.
The route partially received its name due to the Greek (or East German) quality of the significant chimney (non visible on the image).
This chimney needs to be dry!
UIAA: VI+/ IV-V
300m (the whole wall is 850m tall)
Opened on Aug 10. 2003, by Tadej Golob and Borut Kantuser; no known repeats.
No equipment in place.
Getting There
See the Rjavina page Map and Kot Route Approach
From the meadow (Lengarjev rovt) at the end of the road, follow the marked and secured mountain path further into
the Kot valley and then up the right bank (left) until vegetation end (2 hours, water on the way).
Just above Debeli kamen (Fat Rock, rest), at 1750m alt., cross the screes to the left. Enter the wall, using the first suitable ledge.
The Rjavina Ledges is a difficult route to describe; one feels one's way eastwards, towards the base of the big tower to
the left of the main summit. The green lines on the photo should help, but you can manage the set of ledges differently.
Until the base of the tower, the difficulties shouldn't exceed II+.
Route DescriptionStart to the right of a boulder-like formation at the foot of the tower's socle. Soon an evident crack helps us cross
the foot of the tower to the right (III+ slab). Arriving on the right bank of a gully, we enter the gully and follow it
until it transforms into a wide chimney. Belay at its bottom. Climb the wide chimney sometimes facing outwards,
pass the chock (IV) and rejoin an airy ledge outside the chimney.
Don't mind the gear straight above you, but follow the narrow ledge to the right, around the buttress until reaching
the next gully. We climb the slab to the left of the rotten dihedral, exiting to the right (V) and belay in a basin-like
situation. We avoid the chimneys above us by traversing the slab (VI+) to the right. Now enter a not too steep chimney
to the right for a pitch and step out of it to the left. The next wide crack (III+, athletic) guides us slightly rightwards.
At last, we scramble leftwards to the summit.
Descent:
-reverse the Kot Route, 2'5 hours to the end of the road.
-or reverse this route to the Stanicev dom hut (1 hour).
Essential Gear-60m.
-2 medium cams, 2 medium small cams.
-A consistent amount and choice of pegs, ordinary short and ordinary long ones, 2 short profiles, one long profile,
one universal.
-Enough slings.
External LinksThe weather forecast in Slovene Images
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