In Slovenske Stene (Slovene Walls) Tine Mihelic quotes Igor Mezgec (Martuljek guide book, 1986): "If we alpinists would be unwelcoming, we wouldn't recommend this route, even to a best friend. We recommend it to everyone!"
The route was opened in 1939 by Tone Bucer and Milan Kristan.
It is 400m tall and has a long approach and a tricky (and long) descent.
In the Martuljek panorama, Mali Oltar is the one to the left (E), in the central group of three.
Getting There From the Gozd Martuljek bus stop to the bivouac Za Ak, it takes 1,5 hours, along a marked and secured path,
following the signs: Martuljek and then Za Ak (water along the way).
The bivouac is signalized by cairns, towards the right, in the woods at the end of the marked path.
The marked path gives way to an unmarked path ascending the scree towards the foot of the Siroka Pec wall.
Follow the bushy rib (path) slightly to the left. As the low bushes end, keep left in the chaotic gully, yet attaining the
Three Larks from the left, after crossing a streak of water. Above the larks follow the hint of a path straight up at first
and then turn right, crossing the big scree in the direction of Mali Oltar (see photo). Cross a rib and continue traversing
towards a gully which drives us(left) to the scree (snow) at the foot of the wall (2,5 hours from the bivouac)
Route DescriptionFrom the end of the scree (snow) we scramble to the left, towards the big dark cave. Belay.
We leave the hole to the right, upwards along a rib (II) until reaching a deep chimney.
We avoid the chimney by traversing to the right along a narrow ledge, now managing accross a scale (IV-),
and then following a fairly large ledge (upwards to the right,III), which ends at the left side of a big terrace.
We now scramble to the left, towards a big chimney. This crack (II, III, IV-) leads us directly to the ridge.
The next pitch follows the ridge (IV-), and the last one climbs a compact slab (IV-) to the right.
Descent (3 hours to the bivouac):
Rap (belay) southwards accross slabs into a notch in the ridge (the ridge continues towards Veliki Oltar). In the notch,
we avoid the gendarme on its right.
A tricky down-scramble leads us now eastwards (left) until we again need to rappel (natural belay on the left, slings),
finally ending on the snow (shrund).
We continue the descent following the evident scree stream. Cross the rock step towards the left and then rejoin
the Three Larks, descending the scree to the right.
Essential GearThe route is barely equiped; the descent is fairly equiped.
Six various pegs and two medium small cams should be enough, the route offering natural belay possibilities (use long slings).
External LinksTine Mihelic: Slovene Walls (Slovenske stene) in Slovene, including excellent topos by Ales Dolenc.
GURS for the 1:25000 map "Kranjska Gora" Images
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Martuljek group
