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| Page Type: Route Location: Washington, United States, North America Route Type: Mountaineering Season: Spring Time Required: A few days Grade: II
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| Page By: Sierra Ledge Rat Created/Edited: Dec 1, 2008 / Apr 16, 2009 Object ID: 467582 Hits: 2282 Loading... Page Score: 89.84% - 30 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewMount Rainier
Success Cleaver Route
Success Cleaver is a 3.3-mile long rock ridge on the southwest side of Mount Rainier that rises over 8,000 feet. Success Cleaver is flanked by the South Tahoma Glacier to the north and the Pyramid and Success Glaciers to the south.
Success Cleaver is has the distinction of being one of the only two climbs on Mount Rainier that does not involve significant glacier travel. Early in the season you will be climbing on class 3 rock and steep snow. Later, when the snow melts, you will find yourself traversing across steep, exposed, unstable scree slopes. Although some claim that the danger from rock fall is minimal, there will be plenty of falling stones to keep you on your toes as you ascend the final chutes and headwall.
Success Cleaver is not an exceedingly difficult climb. However, the long approach (about 10-12 miles), the long climb (8,000 feet over 3.3 miles) and the total elevation gain from the trailhead (over 11,500 feet) make for a significant endeavor that takes most parties 2 to 4 days to complete. It is possible to descend the route, but most continue over the summit and descend via another route.
ApproachGeneral Information
There are two approaches to Success Cleaver. These approaches are described below.
1. West Road & Tahoma Creek Trail (12 miles, 3,500-ft elevation gain)
2. Longmire & Rampart Trail (10 miles, 4,100-ft elevation gain)
National Park Service Information Pages
Check for location conditions:
Mt. Rainier Trails and Backcountry Camp Conditions
Mt. Rainier Wilderness Camping and Hiking Homepage
West Road and Tahoma Creek Trail
This used to be the primary approach to Success Cleaver. However, recurrent flooding has caused heavy damage to roads, bridges and trails in the area. Thus, in recent years more parties have started from Longmire. National Park Service publlished a report on The Flood of 2006 that shows the damage done by the flood (scroll down to the section on Tahoma Creek and Westside Road).
The West Road is now closed at an elevation of 2,900 feet. The road closure is about a mile downhill from the Tahoma Creek trailhead. From the road closure, hike up the road for one mile to the Tahoma Creek Trail. Follow the trail up Tahoma Creek to Indian Henry's Hunting Ground and Mirror Lakes. Beware, bridges may be washed out and Tahoma Creek may be impassable. Contact the National Park Service for current road and trail conditions.
From Mirror Lakes, continue northeast across benches just north of Pyramid Peak to the saddle that marks the beginning of Success Cleaver. This approach is about 12 miles long and climbs about 3,500 feet.
Personally, I have never used this approach, since the West Road and Tahoma Creek trail were closed when we climbed Mount Rainier.
For the latest West Road and Tahoma Creek Trail conditions:
1. Go to Mt. Rainier Trails and Backcountry Camp Conditions
2. Scroll down to the second chart ("Trails in the Longmire Area")
3. Review the "Mirror Lakes Trail" information
Interactive Map of the Tahoma Creek area:
View Larger Map
Longmire Trail
The approach to Success Cleaver from Longmire is very long and it is difficult right from the start. From Longmire, climb a steep switchback trail over the Rampart (about an 1,100-foot climb) and then descend about 300 feet to Kautz Creek. Cross Kautz Creek and climb up to Indian Henry's Hunting Ground and Mirror Lakes. Continue on to Success Cleaver as described above under the Tahoma Creek Trail description. This approach is 10 miles long and climbs 4,100 feet.
For the latest Longmire Trail conditions:
1. Go to Mt. Rainier Trails and Backcountry Camp Conditions
2. Scroll down to the sixth chart ("Wonderland Trail")
3. Review the trail information for "Longmire to Indian Henrys"
Interactive Map of the Longmire area:
View Larger Map
Bivouac Sites
If you wish to camp at the base of Success Cleaver, there is wonderful mount (point 6,631 feet) just north of Pyramid Peak that offers broad panoramas of Success Cleaver and the surround area. If you have the energy to continue, however, start ascending Success Cleaver before bivouacking. There are good bivouac locations along Success Cleaver at about 8,100-8,300 feet, 9,400 feet and 10,700 feet.
Route DescriptionRoute finding for the first 3,000 feet is straightforward. From the start of the ridge at 6,400 feet, just follow the broad ridge all the way up to 9,400 feet.
At about 9,400 you will be forced to the east by steep rock steps. Traverse below the cliffs at the top of steep, exposed, unstable sand and scree slopes. This can be unpleasant and unnerving because the slopes are steep and there is no protection. Early in the season these slopes will be covered with snow.
Once you reach an elevation of about 10,200 feet you will bypass a couple of gendarmes. Most of them are passed to the east via really easy class 3 scrambling. At about 10,700 feet there is a nice broad saddle for a bivouac that is generally free of rock fall danger.
Just a little higher, at around 11,200 feet, the ridge steepens dramatically and you will be forced east off the crest again. Angle up and right across three chutes to the headwall above the Success Glacier. These chutes and the headwall are pounded by falling stones and ice, so stay on your toes. The chutes are also prone to avalanches in certain conditions. In a whiteout, route finding would be very difficult here.
Continue upwards until it is possible to ascend right up steep chutes onto the Kautz Cleaver at about 12,600 feet. Once on the Kautz Cleaver, continue up to Point Success. There are several short but steep class 3 or class 4 rock bands that you will need to climb. The final rock band below Point Success is rather difficult.
This photo by BSPclimber is particularly useful for scouting the upper headwall of Success Cleaver:
DescentIn order to avoid glacier travel you will need to descend Success Cleaver. This is serious under taking and should not be taken lightly. There is considerable exposure on this route and a fall would likely be very bad. If I were going to descend Success Cleaver, I would be most worried about descending the traverses from 11,000 feet to 9,400 feet. I would also not want to descend after a long summit day, I would want to bivy somewhere and hit it when I was rested. But that's just me.
Most parties use an ascent of Success Cleaver to traverse the mountain. Descent of the trade route (Disappointment Cleaver) is common. Beware, route finding from the summit would be very difficult in a whiteout.
Essential GearAlpine climbing gear: boots, crampons, ice axe, helmet, bivouac equipment.
External LinksWalter A. Siegmund's 2002 Trip Report on Success Cleaver
Administrative RemarksI constructed this page on Success Cleaver because no one else has done so. I am by no means a Rainier expert. So if you're a PNW climber and would like to take over this page, or have suggestions for improvement, please contact me.
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