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| Ogrin-Omerza   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.36736°N / 14.63739°E Route Type: Trad Climbing Season: Summer Time Required: Most of a day Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS) Difficulty: UIAA V-, 480m Number of Pitches: 15 Grade: III
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| Page By: seppl Created/Edited: Dec 5, 2008 / Oct 6, 2009 Object ID: 469324 Hits: 604 Loading... Page Score: 88.6% - 14 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
The display of interesting routes and the comfortable access are two of the reasons for visiting the Ojstrica N wall.
France Ogrin and Igor Omersa opened their route in 1931.
It nicely respects the twists and turns of this beautiful wall.
UIAA: V-/V, IV-III (480m)
Various routes criss-cross the wall and we should therefore beware of being misled
(it sounds strange to write this, ha!).
Getting ThereThe bus from Celje leaves us off in Solcava, allthough the road continues into the Logarska Dolina valley.
We follow that road up to the Dom Planincev hut,
and then one of the marked paths (Ojstrica signs) to the Koca na Klemenci Jami hut (1h. from the road).
Approach:
From the hut we follow the Ojstrica signs, through the forest.
As the path splits we follow the left one (Kopinskova pot).
Soon we reach the scree and ascend it to its top (45min).
Route DescriptionWe leave the scree up a large gully(II, III, IV) which squeezes.
As it becomes a steep chimney we exit on the slab to the right (V-).
We are now on a large terrace and head left towards the slab below a dark overhang.
Climb the slab straight up to the roof and traverse to the right (V-).
First slightly down-climbing we now follow a ledge for two pitches, still traversing to the right.
As the ledge ends, we turn left and again follow a ledge.
As this ledge ends, we cross the rib (IV, delicate down climbing after the rib), now arriving at a cave entrance.
We continue traversing to the left along an airy ledge (one pitch). As it ends, we turn to the right,
at first up a cracked slab, then rejoining a ledge.
This ledge is going to be the rest of the climb. We follow it all the way to the NW ridge:
a tricky detail appears, traversing a slab (V-); further on, as we cross below large overhangs we stick to the wall (IV+)
(allthough a variant exists -quote-, slightly lower).
Just before attaining the ridge, we turn left, up a shallow gully (III), finally arriving on the marked path(Kopinskova route- green line on the image). Turn right for the summit.
Descents:
South ascent(the closest hut, 45 min)
Kopinsek Route
Skarje
Essential GearThe route is equiped,
but just in case, we´ll carry the usual 5 pegs (various), two cams (medium, medium small) and enough slings.
Since nowadays 60 m is mainly used, we might as well do the same and therefore have more chances to find fresh belay pro.
External LinksPHOTO Gallery!
Tine Mihelic: Slovene Walls ( Slovenske stene ) in Slovene, including excellent topos by Ales Dolenc.
Logarska Dolina, vzhodni del (Logarska Valley, eastern part) in Slovene
and with excellent topos, published by PZS, Ljubljana, 1998.
PZS for the 1:25000 map of the range.
Images
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