Trikot is not an easy wall! Its 500m drop is built in such a way that one never really sees much more than the pitch which is being climbed.
A 1960 creation by Edo Pisler and Anton Skarja, Trikot was the first route to be opened on the Triangle, and probably still is the main attraction in the walls above Jezersko.
The 1977 historical winter repeat even led to the 1979 Slovene success on the Everest W ridge (SP User Andrej Stremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik). 1979 was also the year Iztok Tomazin and Earl Wiggins freed Trikot.

Getting There

In order to climb in the Dolgi Hrbet N face, we need to start from the Kranjska koca na Ledinah hut.
The 45 min. approach starts directly behind the hut and leads through the bush, first straight up, then regularly to the right (W). Now cross the large gully and go up the scree. Cross a snow field, then scree again, until reaching the foot of the wall.

Route Description

Start below the big overhang, to the left of the wall's lowest point.

P1 climb slightly to the right (IV+), crossing a rusty coloured slab. Belay on the ledge.

P2 go diagonally to the right (III) accross slabs to the foot of a dihedral.

P3 dihedral (V).

P4 cross slabs diagonally to the left (III) until reaching a funnel.

P5 follow the funnel (II), and exit it through the window. Traverse to the right (V) and belay in the gully.

P6 follow the gully (II) to the base of a book.

P7 dihedral (V) , exit left, belay on a comfortable ledge.

P8 cross a slab to the right, pass an overhang, and follow a dihedral (VI) to its end, then traverse left and belay on the scale.

P9 take the left dihedral, up the overhanging chimney (V+), and again follow the book. Traverse right and then straight up to a larger ledge.

P10 climb the slabs first to the left, then right (VI-); again up slabs in the middle of which we belay.

P11 slabs, in and out overhangs, slab again (straight up, VI, crux), belay on a large ledge.

P12 traverse right , then up a crack (V-), and belay at the large scale.

P13 continue behind the scale to its end, go around the edge (IV) and along a gully (II) to the base of a clogged chimney.

P14 take to the right, up the slabs (V-), and then through a chimney.

P15 straight on after the chimney, following the gully (IV) to a ridge which we follow.

P16 & P17 scramble easy terrain (I-II) to the crest.

DESCENT: follow the marked and secured path westwards (right) along the summital ridge until reaching the Mlinarsko Sedlo saddle.
Signs for Ceska koca (hut) direct us northwards, back down to the Jezersko trailhead (but not via the same hut as we started from). In case of need, the Kemperl Bivouac lies south of Mlinarsko Sedlo, along the path towards the Cojzova Koca hut.

Essential Gear

The route is equiped with pegs.
Nevertheless, each climber should have at least 6 various pegs.
One set of medium large, medium and medium small cams might come in handy.

External Links

Litterature in Slovene:
Jezersko, a climbing guide including topos.
Slovenske stene, a reference book including topos.

Images