Very nice chimney climbing (Mega!). One of the nicest such climbs in the Julian Alps!
First ascent: Jul 28, 2007 (Tadej Golob, Borut Kantušer)Getting ThereFollow this route to the Grlo wall passage.
Megakamin is the evident chimney to the left.
Route DescriptionIn fact, the image is sufficient.
Pitch one, which gets us to the actual entry of the chimney, is a UIAA III.
Pitch two and three (UIAA IV and IV+) are best enjoyed with as little as you can carry (it is really not wide!).
Pitch four (UIAA III, II): the chimney largens, gullies and circles left to the edge of the W ridge.
Descent: W (5 min) to the Grlo saddle and reverse the approach.Essential GearUsual: 5 pegs, 3 cams (each)
Maybe a choice of two long ordinary and two long thin pitons for belay one.
Slings.
In the chimney itself (two pitches) one really does not need any pro (the lesser width wouldn't really permit a fall).
One piton is to be found just above belay two.
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