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| Right Crack   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.34562°N / 14.61508°E Route Type: Trad Climbing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Time Required: Half a day Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS) Difficulty: UIAA IV+, 100m Number of Pitches: 2 Grade: II
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| Page By: Borut Kantušer Created/Edited: Jun 16, 2009 / Oct 6, 2009 Object ID: 522110 Hits: 233 Loading... Page Score: 86.84% - 3 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Stanicev vrh (Stanic's peak) was named after the famous mountaineer Valentin Stanic (1774-1847).
A part from being a beautiful and healthy Peak, Stanicev vrh is a school. It is a caracteristic miniature, and any alpine discipline (except true glacier crossing of course) may easily be performed on the mountain, including admiring (and hopefully photographing, in my case).
Stanicev Vrh is usually the first peak of the famous Crossing of the Zeleniske Spice (UIAA II/II+, crest scramble).
An interesting feature is Kovacnica, a natural and very spacy tunnel leading through the mountain from the foot of the S wall to the middle of the N wall.
The South face received many bolted rock climbs, but the North wall (NNW) had not been climbed until 2002, except for the gullies to the right and left of the face.
The first ascent of the Stanicev Vrh N wall was performed on June 30, 2002, by Borut Kantuser and Bojana Karuza.The line (excellent rock quality) is the evident crack on the right side of the almost 100m tall wall, and is now called Right Crack (Desna poc).
Getting There
Leave the Kamniska Bistrica Trailhead along the Kamniska Bistrica to Kamnisko sedlo route. At "V Klinu" take the Repov Kot route.As soon as the path leaves the thick forest we may appreciate the view of the Zeleniske Spice on the opposite bank. Stanicev vrh is the closest of the peaks in the serie of those peaks with no bushy interruption in the notches (the upper part of Zeleniske Spice).
Above the Tolmuni (the famous waterholes above the Rep waterfall in the upper Sedelscek gully/Repov Kot), we cross the streak of water smoothly. The gully in front of us and which goes directly to the ridge is the via normale on Stanic (the yellow line on the image).We face left. There usually is no snow, and a boulder like traverse to the left (III, often damp) is necessary in order to enter the gully. We let this gully guide us (II), avoiding difficulties to the left, allthough a dihedralish line invites us more to the right. When in full sight of our wall, we let a right hand scree rib lead us up to the grassy foot of the evident right oriented crack in the wall (deep cave to the left). The line drawn in green on the access image is our approach route, Grapa (gully) v Stanicevem vrhu, II-III.
Route DescriptionPlace protection at belay 0 (the slope below our climb is steep).
Pitch 1 starts up the slab (IV-, sling pro, or place a peg ), crosses soon right, before resuming left again (see photo) to the main crack which we folllow (IV, peg in place). The following dihedral is solved on its right hand slab (IV+, crux), the crack being used for placing a middle small cam.Convenient belay (1 peg in place).
Pitch 2 follows the now chimney like crack (IV-/III, then II), slightly bending left before exiting on the ridge, a few steps along the via normale to the summit. If really necessary we may belay from the summit bolts belonging to the S face routes (right hand).
Descent:
Follow the well tread SW ridge (I-II scramble), until the saddle. Discover (right hand) the slit through the pine-bushes and follow it to the edge of the sand and screefull gully (yellow line on the image). Carefully follow this gully, avoiding problems right hand, and rejoin the streak of water from which we started.
Essential GearUsual, let's say 5 pegs (2 ordinary long, 2 ordinary short, and one profile), and 2 or 3 cams, medium, medium small.
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Alpine Climbs in Slovenia
