The north southern

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The north southern

Page Type: Route

Location: Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.34527°N / 14.61525°E

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: UIAA V(+), 100m

Number of Pitches: 3

Grade: II

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Page By: Schputnik

Created/Edited: Jun 17, 2009 / Jan 17, 2010

Object ID: 522213

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Overview

FA: Sept 24. 2007

Route description

"The North-southern route" (Severo južna)

Place protection at belay 0 (the slope below our climb is steep).
To the right of Right Crack, we notice two holes in the wall. The one to the right is the Kovacnica tunnel opening, which is our goal.

Pitch 1 starts on the slab to the left of an unfriendly shallow crack (IV, poor rock, difficult pro/peg placement). The line then approaches the right-hand crack (one peg in place), but still takes advantage of the slab (UIAA V (V+ ?), crux).
Above the cautious move, the situation looses of its steepness, running out (poor rock) to the edge of the Kovacnica opening. Most comfortable belay 1 (no pro in place).

Pitch 2 is a walk through the Kovacnica tunnel, leading to its S entrance, at the base of the S face.

Pitch 3 (and 4): pitch 3 starts right hand (looking out), up a beautiful wide (short) crack on excellent rock and disappears behind the edge. Belay (no pro in place).
It is now difficult to avoid the existing bolted lines which lead straight up, and we traverse to the left (III/III+) before heading up (a middle size cam comes in handy). Aim for the bushes (sling pro, IV-), and finally circle right (II) until reaching the SW ridge.

Descent:
Follow the well tread SW ridge (I-II scramble), until the saddle. Discover (right hand) the slit through the pine-bushes and follow it to the edge of the sand and screefull gully (yellow line on the access image). Carefully follow this gully, avoiding problems right hand, and rejoin the streak of water from which we started.

Approach:
Leave the Kamniska Bistrica Trailhead along the Kamniska Bistrica to Kamnisko sedlo route. At "V Klinu" take the Repov Kot route.
As soon as the path leaves the thick forest we may appreciate the view of the Zeleniške špice on the opposite bank. Staničev vrh is the closest of the peaks in the serie of those peaks with no bushy interruption in the notches (the upper part of Zeleniške špice).
Above the Tolmuni (the famous waterholes above the Rep waterfall in the upper Sedelšček gully/Repov Kot), we cross the streak of water smoothly. The gully in front of us and which goes directly to the ridge is the via normale on Staničev vrh.
We face left. There usually is no snow, and a boulder like traverse to the left (III, often damp) is necessary in order to enter the gully. We let this gully guide us (II), avoiding difficulties to the left, allthough a dihedralish line invites us more to the right. When in full sight of our wall, we let a right hand scree-rib lead us up to the grassy foot of the N wall (a deep cave is to the left of the evident Right Crack).

External Links

http://www.gore-ljudje.net/novosti/24171/