Contribute  Loading... Geography Parents Loading... Routes
| MaRe   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.34771°N / 14.61682°E Route Type: Scrambling Season: Spring, Summer, Fall Time Required: Less than two hours Rock Difficulty: 5.2 (YDS) Difficulty: UIAA II+, 150m Grade: I
| Route Quality: | | | | Loading...
| Page By: Borut Kantušer Created/Edited: Jun 17, 2009 / Oct 6, 2009 Object ID: 522311 Hits: 230 Loading... Page Score: 87.54% - 6 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
As soon as we leave the thick of the forest along the path entering Repov Kot (the Sedelscek valley) we discover the sight of the Zeleniske Spice NW walls, and we see the route MaRe (on the third peak from the right), as easily as we can spot it on the pic.
It is quite unbelievable that this evident line had not been human climbed, but it was unclaimed until Jan 20, 2007.
Poli Bajec and Borut Kantušer later named the route after Mare Vrviščar (1973-2005).
Getting ThereLeave the Kamniska Bistrica Trailhead along the Kamniska Bistrica to Kamnisko sedlo route. At "V Klinu" take the Repov Kot route.
Above Tolmuni (the water holes in the upper Sedelscek gully) the path twists and turns in the last forested slope, and soon a picturesque promontory appears left hand. A well tread path leads to the left, but we follow the one to the right.
The start of our route is now very close in sight, on the opposite bank. We rather avoid the bushes and continue along the path, now below the Planjava SE wall). As our path passes below overhangs, we scramble down to the dry stream, level with the gullied start to our route: the big diagonal slit in the wall.
Route DescriptionA small meadow leads to the funnel which we manage straight up (II+, crux). We now stick to the right, close to the pine bushes, and yet later properly regain the ledge.
The "Smer kar tako" route (gully-chimney) is here to our left, straight up.
We now follow the unmissable ledge to its end (ca. 150m), continuously raising rightwards. The ledge is often interrupted; a delicate traverse move, a squeeze (II, the grenn stuff comes in handy). Just before attaining the edge, one notices that the wild goat here jump upwards to the left on loose ground. We continue around the corner, discover the Padalska gully (grapa), and resume left hand to the ridge which now gently leads to the summit (II, then I).
Essential GearSome rope might come in handy. Images
|
|
