Contribute  Loading... Geography Parents Loading... Routes
| Votli Vrh N face   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Slovenia, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.40623°N / 13.63940°E Route Type: Trad Climbing Season: Summer Time Required: One to two days Rock Difficulty: 5.11d (YDS) Difficulty: UIAA VII+, 250m (+500m, VII A1) Number of Pitches: 18 Grade: VI
| Route Quality: | | | | Loading...
| Page By: Borut Kantušer Created/Edited: Jul 4, 2009 / Oct 19, 2009 Object ID: 526441 Hits: 547 Loading... Page Score: 88.44% - 12 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
As we look up the Koritnica valley from the Village of Log pod Mangartom,
the immmense Loska stena (Log wall) is to our right and we may allready notice the Votli Vrh buttress stepping forward.
Upon following the road into the valley and passing below Votli Vrh, we discover its N face.
Votli Vrh N is possibly the most reticent wall which has been climbed in Slovenia.
The line covers Odresitev in the lower third, and Znamenje ob Poti to the summit. |
Here is a list of the only ascents:
1.
Jul 12 & 13, 1984
Znamenje ob Poti, in memory of Nejc Zaplotnik.
VI A2, 750m
Rado Fabjan, Igor Mezgec and Igor Skamperle
2.
Znamenje ob Poti
Darko Podgornik, Ivan Rejc
3.
2001
Znamenje ob Poti, 13 hours, free (except for 4m) and on sight.
VII/VII+ A1
Klemen Mali & Marko Prezelj
4.
Jul 28, 29 & 30, 2005
Odresitev, in memory of Dusan Polenik, opened free and on sight.
VII+, 250m,
plus 500m (VII A1) along Znamenje ob Poti
Tadej Golob, Borut Kantuser
Getting ThereTRAILHEAD:
The village of Log pod Mangartom, along the road 203 from Bovec (Slovenia) to Tarvisio (Italy), is easy to spot by clicking the coordinates in the primary info (above).
Accomodations: a store is open in the morning during week days; guest houses (bed & meals).
A barrier (Triglav National Park regulation) is sometimes down, 2km up the macadam road into the Koritnica valley.
DESCENT:
From the Votli Vrh summit, descend into a notch (E) and again ascend (III+) towards the Morez summit (15min).
Follow the NE ridge to the next major notch, then straight down and finally left hand (alley-like) to the Bala valley upper terrace.
Here we meet the marked path leading to Bavscica (valley) and further to the Kluze Fort (road 203).
Route Descriptions The climbing guide: Moznica & Koritnica by Edo Kozorog and Igor Skamperle is unfortunately not available.
Essential GearIncluding 10 long thin bugaboos,
small U profiles,
a good rack of cams (favour medium & medium small),
3 big cams (grey 3,5; purple 4).
There is some pro to be found along the routes.External LinksWrite up (in Slovene).
Log pod Mangartom trailhead info
Images
|
|
