OverviewThis route is inevitable for anyone really wanting to mention having "crossed the range".
The secured gymnastics along the Kotlici notch are famous musts among generations of mountain-hikers (one of the features is for instance called "barrel with no bottom").
If the Brana N face is snowless, the scree is easily passable -along discovered scree-trails, and everything is fine.
The main "objective danger" is the snow condition in the upper Brana N face (see also).
We must remember that it is statiscally shadowed (an unstopped slide is lethal).
Getting ThereThe E start is the Kamnik saddle hut (Kamniska koca na Kamniskem sedlu).
The W start is the upper entrance to the famous Turski Zleb couloir, on the N end of Mali Podi (Small grounds).
Route Description
E to W (very demanding marked and secured mountain path*)
W of the Kamnik Saddle, the path is first common with the ones for Okreselj (Frischaufov dom) and Brana (even signposted Skuta).
Very soon, the Okreselj (Frischaufov dom) path splits righthand (signposted).
As we start crossing the Brana N face screes (sometimes snow), the Brana route (signposted) splits, ascending lefthand.
We continue horizontally, signposted Skuta/Cojzova koca (both are often the goals of mountain-hikers on the range traverse).
Reaching the end of the scree (snow) we soon descend into the Kotlici notch (secured).
We now wind in and out of various rock formations, and finally ascend (secured) towards the Turska gora summit.
From the summit, the path now easily lowers us on Mali Podi, the "small" grounds below Skuta and Kranjska Rinka, catching up with the W and N paths at the upper entrance to the famous Turski Zleb couloir.
W to E (very demanding marked and secured mountain path*)
From the the upper entrance to Turski Zleb on Mali Podi, we follow the path signposted Kamnisko sedlo (eastwards) -an easy walk until the summit of Turska Gora..
We now descend (secured) into the Kotlici notch. The path becomes very twisty in the notch, weaving in and out of various rock formations.
We finally ascend, now on the Brana NW ridge (secured).
As we arrive to the N slope of Brana, we cross the scree (sometimes snow) eastwards, all too the Kamnik saddle (Kamnisko sedlo). While crossing the Brana N face, the Brana normal route comes in righthand. Further just before reaching the Kamnik saddle, the path from the Frischauf Hut (Okreselj) comes in left hand.
* Throughout Slovenia the marked and secured mountain paths are categorized in:
mountain path (planinska pot),
demanding mountain path (zahtevna planinska pot),
very demanding mountain path (zelo zahtevna planinska pot).
Essential GearIf the Brana N face still beholds snow, the competent use of a piolet is very-very recommended.
In the E-W direction, the state of Brana N can be seen from the Kamnik saddle, but in the opposite direction we will have an ice tool with us (season begin), just for the sake of "you never know".
Along the secured gymnastics section around the Kotlici notch, it is possible to clip in with a via-ferrata protection system.
Helmets are made to protect one against eventual rock (or gear!) fall. Images
|