On the hard side of 5.10, this route offers some challenging climbing in the shade, less than 5 minutes from the road. Kamps and Goldstone did the first ascent in 1967 - a great illustration of the superior ability and psychological fortitude of that generation of climbers.

Getting There

The route is on the Bell Tower, the formation right behind (North) of the Needle's Eye formation. Just before the main parking area as you approach the tunnel, there is a small, paved pull-out on the right. Two faint trails begin here. The lower trail leads down and around the West set of towers in the Needle's Eye group, past Goldline, the Hitching Post, and Holey Terror to the Sore Thumb. The upper trail goes through some boulders onto a pedestal and large, flat chockstone at the base of the North face of the Bell Tower. The route begins off the chockstone. If you go downhill or walk more than two minutes, you have missed it.

Route Description

Start in a right facing thin crack right off the chockstone. Steep lie-backs and finger locks lead to a bulge where you have to transition left into the upper crack. A "thank god" hold at the base of the of the upper crack makes this a number grade easier. Climb the flared hand crack. Toward the top, the crack degenerates to a seam with a few finger locks, then widens again to an off-width just before the anchors to ensure your humility. Two ropes get you back to the chockstone.

Essential Gear

Set of stoppers. Blue tricam is nice at the crux. Green alien through 3.5 Camalot sized cams with doubles in the 2-3.5 range. Two ropes.