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Direct South Face
Route
Direct South Face 

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: jspeigl

Created/Edited: Jul 22, 2009 / Jul 22, 2009

Object ID: 532298

Hits: 116 

Page Score: 0% - 0 Votes 

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Overview

The Direct South Face climbs a left facing dihedral to a roof. The roof is passed on the right, and then joins Tranquility (5.6) to the top of the tower.

Getting There

 
 

Follow the Getting There instructions to Moosedog Tower. From the campsite, the route is the left facing dihedral that leads to a roof. You can't miss it.

Route Description

1. Climb the dihedral to the roof. The roof is the crux and the highlight of the climb. Pass the roof on the right (5.9), and continue to an alcove with some bolts.

2. From here, you can go three ways. Left takes you to an exposed arete (5.6). Straight up is a pair of cracks that leads out of the alcove (5.8). Or traverse right, then up a face (5.6). Climb to the top of a sub-summit of sorts.

3. Continue up the face and crack to the top. Either belay here, or continue about 30 feet north to back of the summit.






















A climber at the crux





Decent

Decent is made by an overhanging rappel off the back side of Moosedog:
 
 

Essential Gear

Standard rack

External Links

Mountainproject route page.

Images




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