| Bas-Cuvier blue circuit Route |
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| Page Type: Route Location: France, Europe Lat/Lon: 48.44637°N / 2.63786°E Route Type: Bouldering Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Time Required: Half a day Difficulty: 4 to 5 Number of Pitches: 51
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| Page By: megla Created/Edited: Aug 4, 2009 / Oct 6, 2009 Object ID: 537134 Hits: 758 Loading... Page Score: 89.27% - 20 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
The Bas-Cuvier bouldering site is the ultimate reference in the Fontainebleau Forest. This is where bouldering started, in the beginning of the 20th century, and the toughest grades and situations are still being sought for.
As a start, the routes and circuits (Cuvier Rempart) had been cultivated by Parisian climbers looking for training opportunities for their further alpine conquests.
As bouldering became an activity in itself, the Bas-Cuvier site attracted climbers (and it still does) from all around the globe.
Litterature:
-"Blocks en Stock -le Cuvier" (write to: Association "Escalade pour tous"; 421, rue du Bas-Moulin, 77190 Dammarie-les-Lys)
-"Bleau, Fontainebleau Bouldering" by Stepen Gough (On the edge Guidebook, Greenshires Publishing Ltd, July '97) is a reference book in English for the entire Forest.
-Other Topos are mentioned on the SP Fontainebleau Area page.
Let us add that the landings at Bas Cuvier are very favourable, and that the perfectly compact sandstone is exceptionally fast to dry.
Getting ThereThe start of the circuit (La sans les mains, problem nr.1) is a couple of meters away from the parking lot (Carrefour de l'Epine).
By car:
By clicking the coordinates in the primary info (above) and then enlarging or diminishing, one easily finds the roads leading to the Carrefour de L'Epine parking lot, which is along the RN 7 (D607), NW of Fontainebleau (less than 40 miles out of Paris).
By train:
Local trains (Ter) stop at the Bois le Roi station, leaving Paris (Gare de Lyon station) every hour starting at 6.30 AM (35 min. ride) - similar schedules for the return trip; bicycles are admissable in the train (additional costs) -
Using a map will help us get to Cuvier by foot (1 hour walk on forest dirt roads, SW of Bois le Roi, via the Rocher Canon site).
Map:
1:25000 IGN (Institut Geographique National) map Nr.2417 OT (Foret de Fontainebleau)
Route DescriptionThe Bas Cuvier TD- blue circuit is a succession of 48 boulder problems (+ 3 extras) in the same range of difficulty (4 to 5, corresponding more or less to UIAA V to VI).
TD stands for Tres Difficile (very difficult). Consequently TD- means: less than very difficult, but tougher than D+ (D stands for difficult).
The problems are numbered in blue on white background (sometime quite worn out numbering). The sequence needs to be hunted out among the multitude of other boulders, and in order to find all of them, one of the guide books will come in handy.
Everyone agrees that this circuit is an essential apprenticeship for Fontainebleau boulderers, but it may also serve as a warm up for more advanced candidates.
Many of the problems were opened in the 1930's.
Red TapeUse of chalk is not well accepted (by the rock and by locals, except in very specific situations); resin (pof) is used here.
Wild camping is not allowed in the Fontainebleau forest.
Fires are not allowed.
Cars are allowed along the asfalted roads (dirt roads are blocked with posts and signs). Bicycles are permitted along the dirt roads.
Camping and AccomodationsNearby camping info
Cheap hotel (motel)
If planning a longer stay, it might be a good idea to base oneself in Fontainebleau, and drop in to Paris now and then (f.i. by train and bike) - instead of the opposite.
External LinksLa Paillon, the last problem Images
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