That Depends on your experience. The Eagle Route is a moderate traditional climbing route, but with a short hike so it feels and appears to be more like a mini-alpine rock climb. With a short but steep hike and solid rock over beautiful views, it's a worthy undertaking for budding tradition style climbers. The Eagle Route is rated 5.5 but feels a bit harder and also depends on which variation you choose near the summit. This route is rumored to be the best rock on the Eagle Lake buttress.

Where do I go?

From the Eagle Falls Trailhead, follow the trail for about a mile, stay on the lower fork of the turon loop. You will pass a bridge and the falls on the way to the lake, this is a busy trailhead with frequent tourist who hike to the lake. Take the fork to the lake and cross the lake outlet, follow a use trail around the lakeshore. You will come to a small rock wall on the side of the lake, follow the use trail up around the right hand side of this small wall. To the west there are two large gullies/draws coming down from the ridge, head up the gully on the right through tallus boulders. Half way up this gully cross the brush to the left onto more tallus which reaches the top. Upon reaching the top of the gully, follow the ridgeline to the northwest (turn right) for about one-half mile until reaching the Eagle Lake Buttress. There is a neat balancing rock in the middle of this ridge with spectacular views of Emerald Bay and the Desolation Wilderness, this is where the Eagle Lake Buttress comes into view. There are some trees and shade near the base for gearing up.

Eagle Lake Buttress approach.

The Eagle Route

Eagle Route (rough)

Scramble up to the base of the route, this route shares the same start as the Wind Tree route (not on SP yet). Follow the right hand side of the "V" crack, the left hand side is the Wind Tree Route. The 1st pitch starts steep but then eases off into some ledges in a wide crack. Belay below the dark colored flared chimney.

1st Pitch

The 2nd pitch is intimidating but no harder than the 1st. Move left to the flared chimney. It contains a flake and weaknesses on the left hand side, these are useful for forward progress. Belay from the top of the ridge at the wind tree ledge. This is where you join the East Ridge route (5.7) and where the views get really good.

Follow the East ridge route to the summit..

"Ascend the rightmost pair of wide cracks above to a broken terrace"

or the spicy variation 5.7

Head left and up some small finger cracks to a descent stance, a ring lock gains the shelf above. Walk left across the shelf and then mantel to the right toward the summit.

Descend the mountaineers route, down climbing or rappelling the steep class 4 near the top, or continue along the ridge to the true summit.

Photo of the descent

What do I bring?

Full set of cams to 3.5"
Set of nuts (offsets very handy)
Can be climbed with a 50 meter rope

extra water in the heat, the Buttress is covered in sun.

Images