Eclipsed Arete

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Eclipsed Arete

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: 5.3

Number of Pitches: 7

Grade: III

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Page By: jlemay

Created/Edited: Oct 8, 2009 / Oct 8, 2009

Object ID: 561797

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Page Score: 86.45% - 2 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

If you have been wanting to climb one of the routes on Temple Crag, but the idea of a Grade IV with 15 pitches seems too much, there is one easier alternative. Eclipsed Arete is the next arête located to the left of the Venusian Blind.

It was first climbed in 1970 and is rated 5.3.

Getting There

Use the same approach as the Venusian Blind. When you arrive at the start of the Venusian Blind, continue around a corner to the left to arrive at the base of a 1 foot wide offwidth and belay here.

Route Description

Climb up the offwidth being careful to not dislodge a couple of large blocks 20 feet up. Easier climbing brings you into a gully between the Eclipsed Arete and the Venusian Blind. Continue up the gully for two more pitches. The arête to the left is a lot harder than 5.3 and we continued in the gully after checking the arête a couple of times.

Traverse left onto the arête on good holds. The angle backs off after a couple of pitches. We counted 7 pitches to a flat spot where it was third class to the summit talus slope.

Use the descent to Contact Pass as with the other routes that end in this area.

Essential Gear

To 3”. A long rope doesn’t gain anything and weighs more on the approach and climb.