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| Trucker's Delight   | 
| Page Type: Route Lat/Lon: 51.60410°N / 4.95972°W Route Type: Trad Climbing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Time Required: Less than two hours Difficulty: Very Severe 4b (5.8 YDS) Number of Pitches: 2
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| Page By: Nanuls Created/Edited: Nov 3, 2009 / Nov 5, 2009 Object ID: 570052 Hits: 95 Loading... Page Score: 87.88% - 9 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
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The steep fluted, rock faces of Blockhouse Buttress are a bit of a treasure-trove for mid-grade climbers. Not only is the rock steep and solid in nature, it also affords excellent friction, and although protection may be scarce in places, it isn't overly challenging or scary. Truckers Delight (VS 4b) is one of the crags better routes, and is an excellent companion to the slightly harder Mother Trucker's (HVS 5a) to its left, and the slightly easier Sheer Delight (HS 4b) to its right.
The route is more tidal than its rightward neighbours and one may have to wait a little while for the rock at its base to dry out enough to make climbing pleasurable and to ensure your second isn't wiped out by a rogue wave. The route has a varied feel, first taking the climber up the inside of a small gully, before thrusting them out onto the exposed seaward wall. The second pitch is perhaps a bit of a let down as it is more of an escape than a continuation of the route, but in spite of this, it's still a fun and worthwhile climb.
FA: R. Crockett and C. Fisher, April 20th 1980.Getting There | 
View from the route
(Photo by Nanuls) |
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Blockhouse Buttress
(Photo by Nanuls) |
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When approaching from Carmarthen (SN 405 196) take the A40 Truck Road signposted for Saint Clears (SN 274 160). At the Saint Clears roundabout, take the A477 Trunk Road towards Pembroke Dock (SM 969 036). Before reaching Pembroke Dock, turn left onto the A4075 (SN 019 027) to Pembroke (SM 989 012). In Pembroke, drive straight over the first small roundabout you reach, drive along the A4139 a few hundred metres and turn left and take the B4319 south towards Castlemartin (SR 915 983). Around 2.5km after Saint Petrox (SR 971 975), take a left hand turn (SR 965 964) signposting Bosherston (SR 965 9470). Drive through Bosherston (or stop for a cup of tea at Mrs Weston's Olde Worlde Café) to the Saint Govan's Car Park (SR 966 930).
From the car park, walk south to a small guard house and turn right (west), cross the stile at the guard house, and walk along a gravel road passing Stennis Ford and Huntsman's Leap and the Devil’s Barn. Follow the track and cross a fence at a cattle grid. Soon the buildings and masts near The Castle will come into view (SR 955 933), keep these to your left and carry on towards a second fence. Blockhouse Buttress is the cliff where this fence meets coastline above a large landward slanting slab (SR 951 936). Abseil from a nut and hex anchor to the base of landward slanting slab – the start of the route is just to the left.Route DescriptionPitch 1 (4b, 20m): Avoid wet feet by patiently waiting for the tide to go out. Climb up horizontal breaks to the slit and then into the groove. Trend leftwards to avoid overhangs and steepness and gain the upper slab. Follow this to a ledge where belaying is possible.
Pitch 2 (20m): Look up and pick your own line out. My advice is to take the easiest one.Essential GearThe route is two pitches long and takes a variety of gear from small to large wires as well as a variety of cams, Double ropes are essential for avoiding rope drag. You should also carry an abseil rope to safely access to the base of the crag, along with a set of prussiks (or equivalent) to allow for self rescue should the need arise.
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