Stevia Lolaia ridge

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Geography

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Page Type: Route

Location: Hunedoara, Romania, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.38426°N / 22.84811°E

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.4 (YDS)

Difficulty: UIAA III

Number of Pitches: 5

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Page By: mibu

Created/Edited: Nov 5, 2009 / Nov 15, 2009

Object ID: 570888

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Page Score: 87.28% - 5 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

Overview of Stevia Lolaia ridge

The route is situated in the vicinity of the Retezat peak’s north face and Stevia lake. It offers an easy climb in a nice alpine environment. It has 5 pitches and puts no orientation problems because follows a natural ridge.

Route line

Stevia Lolaia ridge is the leftmost visible ridge which connects Stevia lake with Saua Lolaia, if you stand towards the N face of Retezat. It finishes 200 m south of Saua Lolaia.

The route has no gear in place but there are plenty of protection possibilities.

Getting There

The route can be approached from Rausor by following the hiking trail on the Stevia valley until Stevia lake (3 - 4 hours). Closest refuge is Condorul (1770 m), situated on the Stevia valley, 1 hour away from route’s start. But, I must say, this refuge is not at all in a good condition.

Other approach options are from Gentiana or Pietrele huts. But these are significant longer. To do this, follow the hiking trails to Saua Lolaia (2215 m). From here descend to Stevia lake (2060 m).

Route Description

From Stevia lake start walking up towards the ridge line. The beginning of the route requires just scrambling. The first pitch starts on a ledge, just before a short vertical section.

Pitch 3

Alpine flowers.

Pitch 1 and 2 are pretty short, approx. 30 m. Pitch 1 ends on a small platform. Pitch 2 goes through the left side of some big, overhanging, blocks of granite, and finishes at the base of a small steep wall.

Pitch 3 follows first the wall then avoids to the left some blocks suspended over the ridge. This is the shortest pitch, approx. 20 m, just to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 4 and 5 continue up and finish on less steeper terrain, bellow Culmea Lolaia.

The most difficult part of the route is at beginning of pitch 1, the first meters after roping up. Descent can be done via the marked trail down to Stevia lake.

Essential Gear

Double ropes, slings and a couple of medium / large nuts.

Dictionary

Saua – col
Culmea – ridge
Creasta - ridge