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Royal Arches Climber's Log

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cluckRoyal Arches  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 17, 2007


Wow. What great fun. 1st long climb in the Valley two days after a run up Snake Dike on 1/2 dome. 1st pitch chimney was very hard with a too large pack and polished walls. What a grunt. A0 swing was fun. No problem with water on traverse. 6.5 hrs up moving at a moderate pace. We took the low traverse over to the descent gully that was more unnerving than the climb.
Posted May 20, 2007 3:57 pm

mow10Twice so far  Sucess!


First time for a friend and I, 6 hours up, 4 down N Dome gully. Grueling. Second time, following a buddy who did it like 15 times before, we were up in 2 and rapped down in 1! A late start and still back in time for lunch. I love it.
Posted Mar 17, 2007 7:17 am

SharonRotten Log  Sucess!


I've climbed this at least twice since 1991. Lurid details in journal; will update later. BTW, Chris Kopczynski has the top of the Rotten Log on his home office desk in Spokane: it tumbled down right in front of him & John Roskelley some years ago. Chris retrieved it at the Arches' bottom after they topped out.
Posted Dec 22, 2006 4:31 am

Cookie Addicta snake at the rap rings  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2006

Cookie Addict

A buddy and I did the route in fine weather in 8 hours. There was a balack and white California Kingsnake near the top rap rings that scared the crap out of me as I was 70 from my last piece. A great day out though.
Posted Jul 20, 2006 11:10 pm

thedusRoyal Arches Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2005


Four of us climbed as two rope teams. Jason and his dad, Larry, led the way, and Karissa and I followed. Great climb on a great day, even if my hands were feeling abused still from following Jason up The Cookie, Right two days before. We rapped instead of thrashing our way down the NDG.
Posted Jun 4, 2006 7:29 pm

RileywynaRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: May 1999  Sucess!


My first long route in Yosemite. A great day and we made real good time untill taking a break just below the now fallen rotten log traverse. After this we got behind schedule. With 3 people rapping and getting lost somewhere over by Devils bathtub we didn't get back till after dark.

Climbed wth my main climbing partner Thomas French and his brother David
Posted Dec 19, 2005 7:42 am

DigglerRoute Climbed: well, you know Date Climbed: 16 October, 2005


6 October, '7
This time with Kris. Fun blast up. This time got a LITTLE earlier start (10.04 or so) & didn't make any wrong turns on the way. Weather was great & views & climbing were of course wonderful. Ran into Miguel on the way up. Got down at 20.04. Great time with a good friend & partner.

16 October, '5
Climbed with Gordon. A 130-some mile drive from Strawberry the night before, little sleep, needing to get a nut tool, and difficulties finding the start shot down our attempt to get an early start.

Started the first pitch at 10.45. After the 1st pitch R-hand chimney variation in ST, went up what seemed to be a little-climbed (if at all) unprotected 5.5 groove that took us to the main ledge. After the prominent ledge system following the pendulum, took the wrong dihedral- dirty, mungy, marginally protected, 5.7+, to a ledge. It was here that Gordon discerned we needed to go down to get back on track. Reluctantly & out of necessity, I agreed. Rappelling off of that manzanita bush was perhaps the most thrilling part of the day (the only reassurance I took was that there were some old, natty slings that some other confused party used to rap' down off of when the bush was even smaller). Once back on track, we moved fairly quickly until the sun set. The topo somewhat inaccurate, it took us a while to determine the correct way to continue. Finally found the correct way to go & cruised from there. Was quite relieved to finally reach the first rappel anchor.

Despite the bolted rap' anchors, the darkness made for slow going (I'm so glad the moon was out!!). We made it down w/o incident, however, in the wee hours of the morn'.

Great day of climbing in unusually good weather (esp. at night!), with a good partner and amazing scenery. I'll be back to do this in one in a reasonable amount of time.
Posted Oct 18, 2005 4:46 pm

gordonyeRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: October 16-17, 2005  Sucess!


Followed Dirk in beautiful summer-like weather for my first rock climb inside Yosemite Valley, lasting about 18 hours, 5 of which on the rappell route. Full moon light helped tremendously since we got a late start and by night fall made it to pitch 11 (McNamara), where we got off route and had to rappell from a 2-ft tall manzanita bush (with much trepidation) to get back on route. The rope swing (aid) move was an interesting psychological twist, as were the long rappells (with two 50m ropes) in the cool, still night.

The views of the Valley in the moon light was astoundingly serene, especially from tiny rappell perches high above the valley on the huge, featureless, very steep face.
Posted Oct 17, 2005 7:18 pm

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: several  Sucess!


Both with and without the log (man was that classic?) and free both times.
Posted Oct 16, 2005 2:25 pm

Dave DinnellRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: Sept. 1985  Sucess!

Dave Dinnell

Climbed with John Pfeiffer, Russ Stein, and Russ Patton. A social climbing experience with a party of 4 but we moved surprisingly fast. Descended North Dome Gully and consumed mass quantities of beer.
Posted Sep 19, 2005 12:24 am

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: August 14, 2005  Sucess!
We chose to do the alternate 1st pitch, as there was already another party climbing the chimney. I went half way up and then bailed out. Pavel finished the pitch. The rest of the climb went pretty smoothly. There were two other parties on the route , which slowed us down a bit, but not too bad. Chose to hike down the North Dome gully this time. I'm not quite sure though if this is a better option than the rappels.
Posted Aug 22, 2005 2:36 am

kovarpaRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: August 14, 2005  Sucess!


Fun. Climbed with Kris. 6.5 hrs up, 2hrs down the North Gully.
Posted Aug 16, 2005 12:07 am

Brian FrederickRoute Climbed: royal arches Date Climbed: 70's and 80's  Sucess!

Brian Frederick

My first very long climb, got hung up by other parties and finished hike down in the dark. Did it later in much finer style and again as a warm up to Middle Cathedral to work on speed. classic route and definitly fun
Posted May 17, 2005 12:50 am

MishaRoute Climbed: 5.8 variation Date Climbed: October 3, 2004  Sucess!


At last I had my revenge after getting rained off the 9th pitch earlier this year. As Etsuko and I approached the base of the route, we found several parties to be ahead of us. Instead of taking the queue below the chimney, we walked around the base and climbed the 5.8 variation of the 1st pitch. Great! After that lots of painful waiting for other parties continued throughout the route (maybe 3-4 hours of waiting altogether). We finally made it to the beginning of the rappel route by 5pm. After teaming up with Bela and Adam (who we've met on the route that day), we joined our 60m ropes and started the rappel. About half way through it, the night descended on us making it very hard to navigate (2 and a half headlamps between four of us). After lots of routefinding challenges, we finally made it do the section of the route we could recongize. Few more rappels delivered us safely to the ground, at 11:30pm!

Memorable pitches (as per SuperTopo) were: 1 (5.8 var), 5, 6, 8, 9, 11, 12/13 (we linked these two)

Fantastic adventure!
Posted Oct 4, 2004 1:32 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: May 1980


Memorial Weekend in 1980. A friend of mine Andy Fried woke me up at 8:30 am in Upper Pines Campground. He said I have a Spanish climber here with me that nobody wants to climb with because he doesn't speak any English. Would you go with him up Royal Arches? My friend said, he's just like you, alpine type guy, he wants to go fast. So I said OK and another guy Rick Endo drove us to the climb while telling me how we need to keep going because people bivi on this (this was in 1980). So I told this 21 year old Spaniard; Miguel, Muy Rapido, Si? We flew up the pitches and in no time hit the 5.9 section. There we roped up, Miguel just ran up the pitch without putting any pro in and some guys sitting at the belay asked me "Is HE somebody famous?" We got to the top in 3 hours, 20 minutes and made it back to Campground at 1:30 in the afternoon. For many years we were teased by friends about how we skipped the climb and just pretended to climb it and get back in less than 5 hours. But that's how I met my dear friend and 25 year climbing partner Miguel Carmona.
Posted Jul 3, 2004 8:31 pm

CarboRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: 6/6/4  Sucess!


The first long multipitch of the year, my climbing partner and I alternated leads. The climb was great fun. The views were amazing and there were lots of water in the yosmite falls. The chimney wasn't as bad as expected, but the rap descent was long.
Posted Jul 2, 2004 9:27 pm

RomainRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Route Date Climbed: June 25, 2004  Sucess!


Climbed with Rene' Renteria, alternating leads. Great weather, great views, great climbing, what more can you ask for? TR is here.
Posted Jun 28, 2004 1:46 am

HamiltonRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: March 17, 2004  Sucess!


Just climbed the route yesterday for the first time. We were worried that there would be too much water on the route due to snow melt but the stream crossing on the pendulum pitch wasn’t too bad – about 20 feet of running water (no more than an inch or two deep - it’s also easily protectable). We got a little wet but it was worth it. The weather was perfect – 80 degrees in the valley – in March!! Descended via the rap route in the dark. Finding the rap bolts in the dark was definitely a bit of a challenge.
Posted Mar 18, 2004 2:07 pm

depclimbRoute Climbed: Regualr Route Date Climbed: June 1975  Sucess!


We were newbies, started at 8 and finished at 5. Inching across that log with all of that air was a unique experience. It is a fun climb and I've done it twice since, both in much faster times.
Posted Mar 12, 2004 5:55 pm

kletterwebbiRoute Climbed: Royal Arches Date Climbed: August 1996, September 2000  Sucess!


I climbed it together with my wife Rike and my buddy Klaus "Alaska" Irmler. It was a great pleasure ...

I climbed the route a second time in 2000 toghether with Jörg Dufner in 2 hours as approach to the North Dome. Together with the North Dome it was a big epic.
Posted Mar 12, 2004 5:31 am

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