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Rugged Mountain
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Rugged Mountain

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Rugged Mountain

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: British Columbia, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 50.02217°N / 126.67483°W

Object Title: Rugged Mountain

County: Canada

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 6152 ft / 1875 m

 

Page By: hunterslee

Created/Edited: Jan 10, 2014 / Jan 11, 2014

Object ID: 882668

Hits: 639 

Page Score: 85.91%  - 22 Votes 

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Overview

Rugged Mountain is the focal point of the Haithe Range on Vancouver Island. Climbing Rugged is a rewarding endeavour, and one that requires good physical fitness and strong scrambling ability/rope work. Routes to the Summit all involve semi-technical climbing/exposed scrambling. The standard route, the East Ridge, involves 250 meters of low 5'th class climbing. Other more challenging routes push the grades to 5.8 rock and WI4 ice climbing. The summit of Rugged Mountain offers a stellar 360 degree view of Northern Vancouver Island. On clear days one can easily see Mt. Waddington to the east and Tahsis inlet to the west. 

View from Rugged Mountain's Summit
View from Rugged Mountain's Summit

Getting There

As described in Phil Stone's Island Alpine, the easiest approach to Rugged Mt. is via a de-activated logging rd off the Nomash main line, branch N20. In the Summer of 2013 a dedicated group of local climbers spent 3 days cutting away pesty Alder trees, much improving branch N20. Once at the end of the trail maintenance section a well flagged route will lead you down the valley towards Rugged's imposing South-West face. About half way down the valley the trail will trun 90 degrees leftwards (well marked) and head up a creek bed. Once at the top of the creek bed follow the flagging into the thick second growth. You'll spend a memorable 30 minutes+ bushwhacking thru the second growth till glorious Old growth shows itself. Follow the flagging as you work your way to a ridge that lead you towards the mountain. 

Rugged Bushwhack
Off the beaten path, approach to Rugged Mt.


View from Ridge Summer 2010:


Rugged Summer 2010
Rugged Mt. as seen from approach Ridge.

View from camp site on approach Ridge Winter 2010:

Rugged Winter 2010
Camping on the approach Ridge Feb 2010




Route

Summer Routes:

East Ridge: AI2 low 5'th class, 250m (III)
East Variations:
South Ridge: low 5'th class, 300m (II)
Johnson/Newman Route: 5.8, 500m (III)
South-West Face: 5.6, 700m (III)
North-West Face: low 5'th, 150 M (II)

View from Upper Rugged glacier early Summer 2010:

Upper Rugged Glacier Early Summer 2010
Rugged Glacier...easy access prohibited due to bergschrund.



Winter Routes:

The Chuck: AI2/3 150m (II)
Dan's Route: AI4 250m (II)
Lee/Hinkkala (North West Face): WI3, 700m, (IV)

Detailed Info:

Island Alpine – A Guide to The Mountains of Strathcona Park and Vancouver Island, Philip Stone, Wild Isle Publications, 2003, ISBN 0-9680766-5-3 and/or visit Island Alpine Climbing Guide

Winter Climbing on Lee/Hinkkala Route:

High up on Rugged Mt. North-West Face
High up on Rugged Mt. North-West Face


High Up on Rugged Mt. North-West Face
High Up on Rugged Mt. North-West Face


Red Tape

No red tape: please take out what you bring in.

When to Climb

Routes are good to go year round. Please be cautious if attempting a Winter route. Cold temps are key.

Camping

Depending on your route of choice you can camp below the South-West face, or more commonly at this spot:

Rugged Mountain
Rugged Mountain

External Links

Island Alpine – A Guide to The Mountains of Strathcona Park and Vancouver Island, Philip Stone, Wild Isle Publications, 2003, ISBN 0-9680766-5-3 and/or visit Island Alpine Climbing Guide







Images

Upper Rugged GlacierRugged MountainView from Rugged Mountain\'s SummitHigh Up on Rugged Mt. North-West Face