A sport-climbing mecca - virtually invisible on SummitPost?Rumney Rocks is probably the best-known sport-climbing venue in the northeastern US.
Located on the west side of the town of Rumney, the cliffs of Rumney Rocks form a significant part of the south face of Rattlesnake Mountain.
I don't have the time or knowledge to give Rumney the proper Rock page it deserves, but in the meantime here's a place to start accumulating photos and other info.
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A few points to start with:
This is the place for really difficult sport climbing, but there are so many climbs that all abilities should find something to climb. Many climbs are a single pitch, but some are two or even three pitches. There are also a few trad routes (a couple of cracks, plus some easier stuff that nobody has bothered to retro-bolt), and whole areas devoted to bouldering, including the Pound area a couple of miles away which takes "roadside bouldering" to a new level.
The rock is mostly schist, which tends to form sharp edges (but paradoxically is very slippery when wet). Not only is it rough on hands and feet, you need to be very aware of where your rope is running. Just because you're on a bolted route doesn't mean the rope follows a completely safe line.
Wear a helmet and be aware of what's above you. Cliffs are crowded with people and some areas have loose rocks.
As with many sport-climbing areas, a "sissy stick" can come in handy for reaching the first bolt, as many climbs have bad landings.
WHEN TO CLIMB:
The main cliff closes during peregrine nesting season, April to June. Other cliffs may also close if nests are established on them.