dpotter - Mar 12, 2018 4:07 am Date Climbed: Mar 2, 2018
Two steps up, one step down
No precip the entire season meant melting and freezing cycles on the north face (Jamapa Glacier) made the ice much trickier than normal- a climber fell not wearing crampons and didn't make it, among a dozen others with minor injuries who couldn't get any purchase in the hard ice, all in the week before we arrived.
We only ran into one pair on the summit, otherwise didn't see anyone the whole time. Steep (by hiking standards) and all scree, but no snow the whole way. Started with half hour on an easy path, slowly inclining to around 40 degrees through frustratingly deep sand and small rocks. The last hour or so gets steeper but rockier, so it doesn't feel as bad. From the helicopter wreck at the base of the pulpit, it's an easy 15 minutes to the summit.
Temperatures were around 40 degrees at the refugio and down to around 15 at the summit, not too windy but some gusts. We didn't bring our crampons and axes but the other pair we ran into were using them in the sand to help them from not sliding down. Only 3000 vertical feet gain but physically a lot tougher due to altitude and scree.
Not as scenic as the standard route but definitely safer, less technical, and a good alternatives if conditions permit.
tlogan - Dec 15, 2006 8:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2002
first time
Climbing the third highest point in N.A. was quite a thrill. Will never forget the intense silence as we climbed towards the stars through the endless night.
Faster - Aug 31, 2006 4:59 pm Date Climbed: Dec 28, 1983
Faster
Fun climb, took train from Laredo to Mexico City. Hopped on the train without a ticket and no pesos as it was leaving when we got there. Made our way to mountain via bus and taxi from DF. Rented burros to carry gear to hut, took several hours, climbed the next day. Not steep no snow. Bring plenty of water.
dpotter - Mar 12, 2018 4:07 am Date Climbed: Mar 2, 2018
Two steps up, one step downNo precip the entire season meant melting and freezing cycles on the north face (Jamapa Glacier) made the ice much trickier than normal- a climber fell not wearing crampons and didn't make it, among a dozen others with minor injuries who couldn't get any purchase in the hard ice, all in the week before we arrived.
We only ran into one pair on the summit, otherwise didn't see anyone the whole time. Steep (by hiking standards) and all scree, but no snow the whole way. Started with half hour on an easy path, slowly inclining to around 40 degrees through frustratingly deep sand and small rocks. The last hour or so gets steeper but rockier, so it doesn't feel as bad. From the helicopter wreck at the base of the pulpit, it's an easy 15 minutes to the summit.
Temperatures were around 40 degrees at the refugio and down to around 15 at the summit, not too windy but some gusts. We didn't bring our crampons and axes but the other pair we ran into were using them in the sand to help them from not sliding down. Only 3000 vertical feet gain but physically a lot tougher due to altitude and scree.
Not as scenic as the standard route but definitely safer, less technical, and a good alternatives if conditions permit.
tlogan - Dec 15, 2006 8:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2002
first timeClimbing the third highest point in N.A. was quite a thrill. Will never forget the intense silence as we climbed towards the stars through the endless night.
Faster - Aug 31, 2006 4:59 pm Date Climbed: Dec 28, 1983
FasterFun climb, took train from Laredo to Mexico City. Hopped on the train without a ticket and no pesos as it was leaving when we got there. Made our way to mountain via bus and taxi from DF. Rented burros to carry gear to hut, took several hours, climbed the next day. Not steep no snow. Bring plenty of water.