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Ruth Glacier

 
Ruth Glacier

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 48.85940°N / 121.5317°W

Object Title: Ruth Glacier

Route Type: Basic snow/glacier climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Grade II, 25 degree snow/glacier travel

Route Quality: 
 - 5 Votes
 

 

Page By: EastKing

Created/Edited: Jun 25, 2002 / Jun 25, 2002

Object ID: 156614

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Approach


From Interstate 5 in Bellingham take the Mount Baker Highway (WA 542) to the Nooksack River Bridge which is beyond Glacier, WA. Do not cross the bridge but proceed straight ahead on the unpaved Nooksack River Road. After 1.4 miles take the uphill branch of the road (Hannegan Pass Road - FR 402) for another 4.2 miles to the Hannegan Pass trailhead and campground (3,100 feet).

The trail traverses along the north side of the Ruth Creek Valley, then follows switchbacks up steep terrain to Hannegan Pass at 4 miles. Campsites are at the pass.

Route Description


From a quarter mile south of the pass, locate a climber's trail leading directly up steep heather to a bench at 5,500 feet. Traverse to the east on steep snow. This is the most exposed portion of the entire climb so exercise caution above the cliff band below. The traverse to the southeast leads over a minor ridge as it continues to a broad ridge (5,600 feet) leading south onto a long snow slope. This final slope of 20-25 degrees is a small glacier so expect to see a few crevasses by late season

Essential Gear


Ice axe, crampons, rope, etc.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and Corrections

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DuseksRoute Comment

Duseks

Hasn't voted

It should be noted that in winter conditions significant AVALANCHE hazard on portions of this route.





Section 1: "locate a climber's trail leading directly up steep heather to a bench at 5,500 feet."


    On this section of the route a 400 vert. ft. slope faces North and ranges from ~40-55 degrees.





    know conditons for N facing slopes



Section 2: "Traverse to the east on steep snow. This is the most exposed portion of the entire climb so exercise caution above the cliff band below.


    Here you must traverse around the Northeast side of Pt. 5530. Traversing over a small cliff band puts you on Convex NE facing ~45 degree slope. Here Human Triggered avalanches are likely, do a test* You continue on E aspect slopes ~35 degrees until you hit the S ridge of Ruth.





    Know avalanche conditions for E facing slopes





    *There are a few good locations to do a Rutschblock test on North and East aspects just as you start the Ruth Mt climbing trail after Hannegan Pass.






Check the Avalanche Report before attempting Ruth in winter. Pay attention to N and E aspects. Do a rutschbock test for avalanche hazards. Good test locations are found just past Hannegan Pass. Ruth is a great Ski.





Good luck and be safe.





-Scotty
Posted Nov 25, 2005 10:27 pm

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