S Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Valais/Haute-Savoie, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.98710°N / 7.01170°E

Route Type: Glacier/Rock climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: D+, V

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Page By: Huberschwiller

Created/Edited: Aug 21, 2005 / Aug 21, 2005

Object ID: 166396

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Page Score: 85.87% - 1 Votes

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Table of Contents

Approach

From Trient hut, cross the Trient Plateau in the direction of Upper Tour Collar (3288 m). Don't climb to the collar, but aim at the right of a characteristic sharped rock tower (in N direction).

Route Description

On the right on the rock tower (see approach), you reach the first time the S ridge, with a typical V shape, through a little couloir.
Climb 8 meters on the ridge, and then 12 meters through a crack over slabs on the S side. Cross another slab on the right and regain the ridge on the right side. Climb the pinnacle of the first gendarme.
Abseil 15 meters to the trapped block into the breach between the two gendarmes. Follow on the right a little slab to the foot of the 7 meters high projection of the second gendarme. Climb through a crack on the right side (difficult). The head of the gendarme can be climbed or conturned by the left.

Here you are on the foot of the steeper part of the S ridge. The integral ascent follows this ridge but the assurance possibilities are bad. It is advisable to follow from here the classical S ridge route which turn off on the right side and follow the big chimney.

On the top of the chimney, descend some meters on the E face, cross easy to a characteristic deep chimney with trapped blocks. Climb this chimney to the last breach before the summit. An 8 meters high dihedron leads to the summit.

Abseiling : see NE face.

Essential Gear

Crampons, ice-axe, rope of 40 meters.

Images