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Sahale Mountain Climber's Log

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supreme744Route Climbed: Sahale Arm/Glacier Date Climbed: 7/27/05  Sucess!


Excellent route for a one day trip, however the never ending switchbacks to Cascade Pass from the end of the road trailhead is relentless and a little overdone. 3.7 miles to gain 1200 feet in that portion of the Cascades is a bit of an overkill, even if the intent is to bring Cascade Pass to the general public. Climbed the glacier with a little rope practice and attempted the summit with no rope from the southeast. Got to within one big exposed move from the summit after scurrying up a chute and decided to back off. If there is a relatively safe ropeless route to the summit in dry airy conditions, this is not it. Perhaps another day. The real treasure here are the views, easy glacier and the Sahale Arm traverse.
Posted Jul 29, 2005 11:33 pm

mattdalmanRoute Climbed: Quien Sabe Glacier Date Climbed: August 9, 2003  Sucess!


Two day climb. Camped on the Quien Sabe. 7 AM start and made the summit of Sahale Peak and then climbed down and had lunch and then climbed Sharkfin Tower.
Posted Jul 22, 2005 5:36 am

thundercloudRoute Climbed: Sahale Arm/Glacier Date Climbed: July 17, 2005  Sucess!


Started out from car at 7 am, summit around 1:30 pm, left summit around 2:30 pm, back at car at 6 pm. Climb was very short, but there were plenty of other folks up there. Trail is snow free up to high camp and the glacier. Lots of furry marmots en route. Glacier very tame, snow in good shape, rock pitch very short. Climbed with a newbie so we roped up at glacier, and simul-climbed the rock with a couple belays. Exited the glacier to the right and kept working our way right around the summit pyramid, mostly 3rd class scramble with some exposed 4th toward the finish on the NE side. Rope not necessary for able scramblers, but was very nice for the rappel and good practice with rope mgmt. Awesome day, amazing views!
Posted Jul 20, 2005 1:43 pm

rcook1Route Climbed: Quien Sabe Glacier Date Climbed: July 2005  Sucess!
2 days, beautiful area
Posted Jul 19, 2005 7:42 pm

Dan WinterQueen Sabe Glacier
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2004

Dan Winter

Did this climb in one day. This is a beautiful and interesting climb. Took mountain bikes up the road and had a nice coast back down to trailhead.
Posted Mar 20, 2005 1:21 pm

BlakesterRoute Climbed: Sahale Arm Date Climbed: September '04  Sucess!


Climbed up and down the rappel route (middle of the S. face). While packing up at camp we watched a guy without 'pons or axe try to injure himself due to rockfall and lack of traction.
Posted Feb 14, 2005 9:05 pm

candersonRoute Climbed: Sahale Glacier Date Climbed: September 26, 2004  Sucess!
Fantastically beautiful approach up a well-maintained trail across Cascade Pass. Camped at 7,400 feet with an alpine start early the next morning. Small glacier, but we roped up anyway due to the late season conditions. Great cramponing with hard packed snow, few crevasses. Climbed the summit pyramid (class 4 rock), and feasted on some unbelievable sunrise views of Baker, Glacier, Rainier, Eldorado, ...

This is a highly recommended climb, and I hope to return for more climbing in the area.

Thanks to Sara, Peter, Ken, and Bob for an amazing weekend of climbing!!
Posted Oct 1, 2004 3:58 pm

aishvRoute Climbed: Sahale Glacier Date Climbed: August 21st, 2004
Climb Party: John, Dave. G, Aish

Late start from Portland @ 8:00 PM on Friday (08/20). Reached Johanesberg TH at 2:30 AM. Planned for an early start up the trail, but sleep overcame us and we left the TH at 6:00 AM. Beautiful hike up cascade pass, doubtful lake and up the Sahale arm. After a short scramble up the high rocks, reached the snout of the Sahale glacier at 11:00 AM. Started to go up the glacier, but had to stop to put on crampons (slab ice and slush). The weather moved in quickly and forced us to stay put until 12:00. After an hour's stay at ~7600 ft and the clouds having moved east, we decided to go up the Sahale glacier. Once at the top of the glacier, about 200ft away from the summit pyramind, noticed a rapid movement of a bad weather front (thick clouds moving northbound and thunder) - immediate descent down the glacier and a wet return to the TH @ 5:30 PM. So close to the summit, yet so far! Planning to re-attempt 09/18.
Posted Aug 23, 2004 1:11 pm

Derek FranzenJuly 1980 and July 1982; Sahale Glacier  Sucess!

Derek Franzen

1st time with E Sandbo & L Rasmussen, climbed in combination with Boston. 2nd trip with M Woodmansee, B Brown, J Kristofski, L Franzen and other SAC members. Hiked in to Boston Basin Saturday morning, continued to W end of upper basin below Torment dropped gear and climbed Torment. Back down and spent night below glacier on gravel benches. Sunday traversed Boston Basin and accessed Sahale arm through break in ridge line S of Sahale. Dropped gear near Sahale Glacier and hiked up to summit. Back down to Cascade Pass trail and then back to cars. Fun trip, great weather, good friends.
Posted Aug 17, 2004 9:30 am

NormanRoute Climbed: Sahale Glacier Date Climbed: 8/14/04  Sucess!


One day, car to car. Good weather, fires to the south.
Posted Aug 16, 2004 9:17 pm

esugiRoute Climbed: Sahale Glacier Date Climbed: 6/21/2004  Sucess!


Came back from a butt whoppin' climb on Sahale. Cascade River road is washed out in three places between mile post 21 and 22. So, the road is gated closed at mile post 20. This added extra 3 miles one way to our climb. So our supposed 14 mile round trip (5100 vertical gain) turned out to be 20 miles round trip (6400 vertical gain)!!!!!! All in one day. Left at 4:15 am and returned to the car at 7:30 pm.

Overall, it was worth it. The views from atop Sahale is one of the best. Beautiful clear day and we could see for miles and miles. Could make out Boston, Forbidden, Sahale, Mix-up, The Triplets, Magic Mtn, Cascade Peak, Johannesburg, Baker, Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Mt. Goode, etc.... there's so many!

I'll post a trip report soon with pics.
Posted Jun 22, 2004 4:07 am

sublimesalamanderRoute Climbed: Quien Sabe Glacier Date Climbed: June 4, 2001  Sucess!


Did the summit in three days. Could have easily done it in one long day.
Posted Feb 19, 2004 1:38 am

jverschuylRoute Climbed: Sahale Glacier Date Climbed: August 20, 2000  Sucess!


Did a one day trip from the parking lot, and summited during a small snowstorm. There was about 5 inches of fresh snow on the upper half of the Sahale Glacier. I will have to come back some day when I can see.
Posted Oct 24, 2003 10:07 am

mntnrmichaelRoute Climbed: Sahale Glacier Date Climbed: August 24, 2003  Sucess!


I was lucky enough to get to spend 2 nights at the base of the Sahale Glacier. The weather was incredible. One the 2nd day I made the short trip to the summit, I used no special gear, I went up in a pair of Gortex hiking boots and a pair of trekking poles. There were a few crevasses, all easy to go around or step over.
Posted Sep 8, 2003 10:58 pm

cluckRoute Climbed: Sahale Glacier Date Climbed: September 1, 2003  Sucess!


Long approach for such a short climb. Sahale glacier had a couple cracks opening up but was easy enough that we weren't worried about falling.

We couldn't readily identify the exact route up the summit pinnacle, so we just climbed the crest of the west ridge because it looked fun and we had some gear to use. The rock was suprisingly poor on the first 50 feet or so, but got better toward the end. Near the top we moved down onto the south face a bit and found the short chimney leading up to the rappel station that I've heard people talk about, so I guess we got back on route.

The views from the top were breathtaking. We could see Glacier Peak and Mount Rainier to the south, and Forbidden, Eldorado, Baker, and Shuksan to the north. Plus countless other pointy bastards in every direction.

The rappel down the south face was great and I thought I could identify the "real" route just below the crest of the west ridge. Either way, it didn't look like there was a route that I'd be comfortable downclimbing w/o a rope.

Not a super challenging climb, but highly reccomended as the views can't be beat!
Posted Sep 2, 2003 8:46 pm

zzrilRoute Climbed: Quien Sabe Date Climbed: July 1999  Sucess!


Gorgeous day, very aesthetic route. Excellent glissading back to camp!
Posted Nov 26, 2002 2:19 pm

HendereRoute Climbed: Quien Sabe Glacier Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!


Spent six days there for a mountaineering course. Rained the whole time, but did get the occasional view. Great time and a cool mountain.
Posted Sep 14, 2002 8:57 am

Joe HanssenRoute Climbed: Quien Sabe Glacier Date Climbed: Summer '96  Sucess!

Joe Hanssen

Sahale Peak has some of the most amazing views in the cascades, endless peaks from the summit. The morning of our climb, a bunch of balloons floated by us on the Quien Sabe Glacier. We watched some climbers ascend Sharkfin Tower. While on the summit of Sahale, another group of climbers approached from Cascade Pass to the south, so we built a snowman on top to greet them when they arrived.
Posted Jul 29, 2002 9:48 am

tbnelsonRoute Climbed: Quien Sabe Glacier Date Climbed: July 16, 2002  Sucess!


After two nights of bivying on the Boston-Sahale col and doing Boston Peak and Buckner the day before, we made a 20 minute jaunt up to the summit of Sahale on a beautiful morning. After doing Sahale we went and climbed Sharkfin Tower before returning to our low camp in Boston Basin.
Posted Jul 18, 2002 10:55 pm

BicRungeeRoute Climbed: quien sabe glacier Date Climbed: July 1998  Sucess!

Climbed with Young Mister Haberman. Mellow glacier with only one schrund and maybe 35 degree section, then exposed scramble to summit. Beautiful mountain when approached from either Boston Basin or Sahale Arm. Sahale Arm makes a nice spring backcountry ski.
Posted Jul 10, 2002 4:07 pm

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