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Sahale Mountain Climber's Log

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spotlySahale Glacier
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2005


Climbed with Lloyd, Maryanne, Roberta and Valerie. Fun scramble. Not too crevassed but there was one gaper that required crossing.
Posted Jul 20, 2007 4:08 pm

Karl HelserHow about the peak AND strippers?  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007

Karl Helser

Actually there wasn't room for the strippers. Barely enough room at the summit for the three of us. This climb had the three components of a good climb...A long approach (Especially with the additional 3-miles of asphalt/gravel road in front of the trailhead), a little glacier travel, and a short but sweet summit block rock climb. All that adds up to a "must climb" climb. The friendly marmot was an added bonus!
Posted Jul 16, 2007 7:33 pm

jasonconnellIn from BB out vis Sahale Arm
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2007


Hiked into Boston Basin Friday night, climbed Forbidden Saturday and camped in the Basin again, Sunday Climbed Sahale and descended via Sahale Arm. Had perfect weather on Forbidden but Sahale was a Whiteout.
Posted Jul 12, 2007 5:51 pm

Brian JenkinsMy version of a bachelor party  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2007

Brian Jenkins

With Steve and Karl, my last real climb before getting married. Strippers and being drunk seem kind of cliche and sad at 40, I'd rather use the opportunity to get one last weekend up in the mountains before wedding stuff starts. Headed up Friday morning being the first to get a permit at the ranger station.

Longer hot approach since the road is washed out back at Eldorado Creek. Seemed odd hiking up a paved road though. Ran into an unafraid deer on the hike up onto the Arm. Then a marmot cased our camp just before dinner. Nice night with bright stars and not much wind. Climb was great, Karl led the snow and I got the rock lead. Mostly a 3rd class scramble but with some exposure. The short 5th class step was nice and blocky with lots of easy holds and then a walk to the actual summit. Our 60 meter rope barely got us down to the snow on the rap (yay for rope stretch). Back to the car just before 6 pm with blisters and sore feet. Bacon cheeseburgers in Marblemount helped the healing. :- ) Fun weekend with good buddies and awesome climbing partners.

Now, on to planning my first climb AFTER being married! (Hope she didn't think I was going to stop.) ;- )
Posted Jul 9, 2007 2:07 am

PantilatOne of the best  Sucess!


Superlative view!
Posted Jun 20, 2007 2:19 am

mbollinoFun route, Great views  Sucess!


View from camp on the Arm, as well as the summit, were phenomenal. Climb the summit block just right of center (near rappel line). A move or two of low 5th class (protected with one stopper) let to fun scramble to the top. Usually crowded, we had Sahale's summit to ourselves. Popular but fun climb.
Posted Mar 6, 2007 5:12 pm

littlefrantzSahale Arm to summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2006


Gorgeous views. Great opportunity for an easy trad climb for us beginners.
Posted Jan 5, 2007 1:12 am

Casey BatesVia Quien Sabe  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2006

Casey Bates

Awesome climb via standard route from Boston Basin. Managed to give myself nasty puncture wound with my crampon during crevasse rescue drill on the descent. One of my favorite climbs!
Posted Oct 10, 2006 10:54 pm

OutdoorpartnerTotal White Out
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2006


Had to spin very close to the top due to total white out conditions. With Pat Tillman of Alpine Ascents.
Posted Oct 5, 2006 5:28 am

rhyangQuien Sabe Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2006


Soloed up the glacier from Boston Basin. Nice and easy, but with excellent views ! Started from BB around 8am, up top by 11:45, back in camp by 2-ish. Lots of exposed glacier ice and some hard neve. The night before had been cloudy and rainy, but great climbing weather - cool and clear, though a bit breezy.
Posted Aug 31, 2006 1:59 am

scot'teryxSahale Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2006


9 hours RT, Martin Cash must have been hauling ass since we did not even pitch out the scramble. Glacier showed no signs of crevasses, but they were there, sinking in slowly. No one else really up there, saw 2 other parties and one other party via the Quien Sabe
Posted Aug 24, 2006 8:55 pm

Martin CashOnce  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2006

Martin Cash

Dan and I arrived at Cascade Pass at 7:00 with the intention of doing the Torment - Forbidden Traverse in 2 days. Unfortunely the weather sucked and we were completely clouded in at the trailhead. We decided that would not be a good route in iffy weather and did Sahale as a dayclimb instead. Hiked up the Sahale Arm, then scrambled the Complete Southwest Ridge to the summit. Pretty fun for an easy route. Nice views from the top as the clouds cooperated for about 2 hours at high elevation. 5,700' elevation gain done in 7.75 hours car to car.
Posted Jul 30, 2006 7:10 pm

rkymtnRoute Climbed: Quien Sabe Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2006


This was the first summit during a 7-day stint in the North Cascades with Mountain Madness (part of their 13-day alpine climbing course). The weather was great and the climb was too.
Posted Jul 17, 2006 6:09 pm

setrentRoute Climbed: Quien Sabe Glacier Date Climbed: May, 1996  Sucess!
Climbed the Quien Sabe and descended Sahale Arm. An enjoyable climb with excellent views. Doable in a long day from the car.
Posted Dec 26, 2005 9:51 pm

diceyRoute Climbed: sahale glacier Date Climbed: October 2004
new snow turned us around at summit rock
Posted Sep 4, 2005 2:00 pm

breadboxRoute Climbed: Sahale Glacier Date Climbed: July 2003  Sucess!


Ramoo, Spliff, and Melon. Good times!
Posted Aug 31, 2005 3:25 pm

Stehekin CountryRoute Climbed: SE Ridge Date Climbed: August 15, 2005

Stehekin Country

Started Monday morning at the end of the river road. Hiked to Cascade Pass and then up to the Glacier camp. Started a little late around 5 o'clock. We were about halfway up the pinnacle before we turned back because of the darkness. Great view from the camp and high up on the Pinnacle.
Posted Aug 17, 2005 1:46 pm

NormanRoute Climbed: Sehale Glacier Date Climbed: 8/6/05  Sucess!


Very good weather. Nick and I did a one dayer . Took the west ridge to the summit from the hightest snow patch above gacier instead dusty, loose trail into the gully system to the top. Rope and couple pro for safety. Nice alternative.
Posted Aug 8, 2005 6:34 pm

hkutukRoute Climbed: Sahale Glacier Date Climbed: July 31, 2005  Sucess!


Great setting with incredible views of the northern Cascades therefore deserves an overnight stay but the permit hassle is not worth it. An easy glacier traverse brought us to the base of the pinnacle, chose to climb the south face in one pitch among many other options. It had few 5th class moves on somewhat loose rock. Summit views were great in all directions on this clear day.
Posted Aug 5, 2005 1:56 am

supreme744Route Climbed: Sahale Arm/Glacier Date Climbed: 7/27/05  Sucess!


Excellent route for a one day trip, however the never ending switchbacks to Cascade Pass from the end of the road trailhead is relentless and a little overdone. 3.7 miles to gain 1200 feet in that portion of the Cascades is a bit of an overkill, even if the intent is to bring Cascade Pass to the general public. Climbed the glacier with a little rope practice and attempted the summit with no rope from the southeast. Got to within one big exposed move from the summit after scurrying up a chute and decided to back off. If there is a relatively safe ropeless route to the summit in dry airy conditions, this is not it. Perhaps another day. The real treasure here are the views, easy glacier and the Sahale Arm traverse.
Posted Jul 29, 2005 11:33 pm

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