Overview
This mountain is situated north of the Ticlio pass ( limit of Lima and Junin ), it's considered for local mountaineers like the " beginner's peak"; its normal route go through a long morraine in the south face of Anticonas until a glacier ( visible from Ticlio pass ), walk up the easy buttress ( north face ) until the summit. There are other routes in the south face ( a wall of 400 meters ) wich requiered technical climbing.
The first ascent registered was in 1963 via S.W. glacier.
Getting There
The Ticlio Group is only 4 hours from the city of Lima by a good highway link between the capital city and the center region of the country , Ticlio is considered the most height railway pass ( 4,818 msnm ). The snow and ice peak of this cordillera do not exceed 5600 meters in height and are not as dificult as those in the major Peruvian ranges although there are some interesting peaks and it is a good training area, snow and ice climbing is required.
Red Tape
No permits required
When To Climb
It's better to climb in the andean summer ( april-september ); but the conditions are good in any time of year, snow is not too deep in this mountain section.
Camping
In Ticlio pass there are some restaurants open all day, there is a truck stop there
Mountain Conditions
you could looking for the Senamhi web page for the weather conditions in this mountain section ( Ticlio )
www.senamhi.gob.pe/prono/pron_lima_esp.php
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