Climbed a modification of the Directa route with SPer blazin. At the exit of the first snow couloir there were 2 meter high penitentes on a 60 degree slope! Due to bad conditions and stormy weather we modified the route next day by traversing from the Directa onto the main glacier and established a second high camp at 5000 m there. At the summit weather turned bad again and we had to descend in white-out. Then oriented ourselves back to the normal route across the wild main glacier and descended the normal route.
Summit attempt of San Jose Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2008
Climbed from trailhead to high camp (4,000m) on 1/17. Summit attempted on 1/18, but aborted at 5,600m due to dehydration headaches and incoming weather. Incredible views of Morado, Lessons learned were have a backup hydration source (dromedary punctured 1000m below summit) and get to summit before 2pm. Clouds and winds increase after this time.
Climbed solo from Plantat, where my partner Michael Kruesz waited (altitude related problems). Partly ski descent from 4600 m.
Two more ski attempts during the Chilean winters of 2003 and 2004, aborted because of bad weather.