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OverviewThis route can be climbed on its own or as suggested in the introductory remarks above, combined with VF Ivano Dibona. To climb it on its own in a short single day, use the chair and gondola lifts for the return trip from Rio Gere to Rifugio Lorenzi. If You want to make the most of your investment in the lift ticket then follow suggestion 1 above and climb the first part of CORT 6 on the same day.
Route DescriptionStarting immediately from the sun terrace of the rifugio the route ascends and descends the same way. Climbing is pleasant and well protected from rifugio to the summit of Cima di Mezzo. The ascent takes about 1 1/2 - 2 hours, altough, with the descent being by the same route, heavy traffic could extend this further. Descent could be completed in an hour, but of course this also has the same potential for delays whilst passing people coming up. Total time 3 - 4 hours.
Don't be put off by the mention of traffic; this is a really good route which, with the ride up to the rifugio, gives You an opportunity to climbe in a high-level mountain environment without too much effort. If You choos suggestion 3 above, to stay at the rifugio (it's a wonderful place for a mountain sunset and sunrise!) overnight, be warned it can be quite cold at 3000 m when You wake up in the morning.
The climbing route begins at sun-terrace of Rifugio Lorenzi. You should follow the red marks and steel cable. At the begining on the exposed ridge, later passing a saddle. Now we must climb a wall, here are two ladders helping. Higher we find a key-place, on the end of rift. Then follow the ridge to the summit cross.
The middle peak of Cristallo - Cristallo di Mezzo - is 3154 m high.
Climbing from Rifugio Lorenzi to the summit takes about one and a half hours, return about one hour. In high saison and with good waether please reserve more time for "traffic jam".
Caution for falling stones. The route is very dangerous during thunderstrom and under ice-covering!
From Cortina d'Amepezzo take the road SS48 towards Misurina. After about 6 km you reach a big parking on Capanna Rio Gere (1698 m) just before Passo Tre Croci (1860 m).
From here take a chair-lift to Rifugio Som Forca (2215 m) and later a cabin-lift to Forcella Staunies and Rifugio Lorenzi (2932 m).
The way from parking to Rifugio Lorenzi on foot takes about 4 hours but is really boring and tiring.
The Cristallo routes can be easily approached using the two-stage Rio Gere chairlift system east of Cortina, which is open from the end of June until mid-September (first uplift 0845, and last descent from Rif. Lorenzi at 1710). As with most lift approaches, there is always the option of saving the fare and approching on foot. However, the climb up the Grava di Staunies on the steep scree slopes under the strange little yoghurt pots of the lift would be tedious in the extreme!