Sass d'Ortiga lies between Pala della Madonna ( from which is separated by Forcella delle Mughe ) and Cima di Sant'Anna. It belongs to the important range of the southern sector of Pale di San Martino that divides Val Canali from Valle del Mis.
It shows two wonderful and hard walls, the SW one, that commands Vallon delle Mughe, and the N wall, that falls on Vallone di Sant'Anna. The E wall is less spectacular, but however remarkable. From Val Canali goes up the fantastic W edge, a wonderful pillar, one of the most powerful of all the Group. At its base lie Punta Adriana, Punta del Rifugio m 2420, and Pala del Rifugio m 2394.
The first ascent of Sass d'Ortiga had done by D. Diamantidi, G. Zecchini and P. Kotter in 1892. We must indicate also the wonderful route of H. Kees and F. Wiessner on W edge, opened in 1928. Many other routes go up this mountain, all very beatiful, because the quality of the rock is very good.
The normal route goes up along the southern ridge and it's not difficult ( 1st and 2nd degree ). You must start from Treviso Hut m 1631 and, following the path n. 720, you reach Forcella delle Mughe m 2244 ( to reach this saddle you can also start from Menegazzi Bivouac m 1737, on Gosaldo side ). Now you reach S ridge and begin the route. You overcome a first rocky wall passing a little on the left of a crack quite difficult and turn on the right going into the same crack when it becomes more easy. Now you turn on the left and overcome a wall that take you out of the crack. Now you go up along slopes more easy, overcome a second little wall ( easy ) and continue going up to a third little wall. You overcome it obliquing on the left ( not easy ). Here the steepest sector of the ridge ends. Now you continue easily up to the summit. ( Report by Luca Visentini )
TIMES OF RANGE : Treviso Hut m 1631 - Forcella delle Mughe m 2244 = h 1.30
Forcella delle Mughe - Summit = h 1.30
DROPS : Treviso Hut - Forcella delle Mughe = 613 m
Forcella delle Mughe - Summit = 390 m
To reach this mountain you can go up from Val Canali ( Treviso Hut ) or from Mis, in Valle del Mis. To reach Val Canali you have to go to Trento or to Belluno, by train or by car, and go up to Fiera di Primiero. Now you follow on the right the road that leads to Passo Cereda and, arrived to a cross, turn on the left going up to Cant del Gal, a wonderful place with two beatiful hotels. Turning on the right you can go by car up to a parking in Val Canali, at 1300 m of altitude. From here follow the path n. 707 that in h 1.00 leads to Treviso Hut m 1631.
To reach Mis you can go the same way to Val Canali, bust you must follow the road up to Passo Cereda and then go more few kilometers up to Mis. When you arrive here you go on up to Sarasìn, and drive along the narrow road that on the left goes up a little parking before Domadori ( 1300 m of altitude ). Here you go up walking in h. 1.30 reaching Menegazzi Bivouac m 1737. To reach Mis you can also go from Belluno to Agordo and here, turning on the left, go up to Forcella Aurine. Now you go beyond Gosaldo and in few kilometers arrive to Sarasìn.
The route is not difficult, but it's required the rope and, if you want, some friends and nuts. Medium mountain clothes.
SAN MARTINO DI CASTROZZA : CAMPING SASS MAOR
via Laghetto, 48
38058 San Martino di Castrozza ( TN )
TONADICO : CAMPING CASTELPIETRA
loc. Castelpietra, 1
38054 Tonadico ( TN )
e-mail : [email protected]
IMER : CAMPING CALAVISE
Villaggio Sass Maòr, 36
38050 Imèr ( TN )