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Schaufelspitze
Mountain/Rock

Schaufelspitze

 
Schaufelspitze

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tirol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.42277°N / 11.60770°E

Object Title: Schaufelspitze

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall

Elevation: 7572 ft / 2308 m

 

Page By: selinunte01

Created/Edited: Jul 28, 2010 / Aug 16, 2010

Object ID: 642820

Hits: 1731 

Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

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Overview

 
Schaufelspitze
Schaufelspitze and northwest ridge viewed from Eng valley


Schaufelspitze - shovel peak - indeed has the shape of a shovel when viewed from Eng valley. Standing high above Eng valley (west) and Falzthurn valley (east) between Sonnjoch in the south and Bettlerkarspitze in the north, Schaufelspitze is one of the loneliest peaks of Karwendel. To the east and south there are nothing but steep to perpendicular rockfaces, to the north there is a deep and unfriendly looking cirque and on the west side, heavily overgrown with dwarf pines, there is no trail.

So who visits Schaufelspitze ?

Climbers do it sometimes, there are some interesting climbing routes in the southern rockfaces, starting from Bärlahner valley.

Huntsmen, maybe.

And those madmen like me, who love these lonely and remote Karwendel peaks.

Lacking absolutely a decent trail, Schaufelspitze shows you how it must have been in these pioneer times when Karwendel was explored by Herrmann von Barth in the 19th century. There were huntsmen tracks, cow tracks and chamois tracks. Dwarf pines as a lovely obstacle to gain height. Steep meadows, dense wood and unpolished rock. No water, floods of sweat and more swearing words. A light breeze at the summit, no people, crows doing a spectacular airshow, remote chamois and about 200 people lining up at neighbouring Sonnjoch summit.

This is Schaufelspitze. Like that ? Try that summit then.


Getting There

 
Schaufelspitze
Schaufelspitze as seen from Bettlerkarspitze


Main northern trailhead is Hagelhütten near the end of Eng valley.

You reach Eng valley by car

  • from Munich via Bad Tölz, Lenggries, Fall, Vorderriß, Hinterriß and the toll road to Engalmen until you arrive at Hagelhütten (parking area)

  • from Innsbruck via Seefeld, Mittenwald, Wallgau, toll road to Vorderriß, Hinterriß and the toll road to Engalmen until you arrive at Hagelhütten

  • from Garmisch-Partenkirchen via Klais, Wallgau, toll road to Vorderriß, Hinterriß and the toll road to Engalmen until you arrive at Hagelhütten



  • You can reach Eng valley from Munich by rail and bus, too. Check this possibility here.

    Main southern trailhead for climbers is Gramaistal near Pertisau / Achensee.

  • by car on highway A 12, Innsbruck - Rosenheim exit Wiesing / Achsee - Maurach - Pertisau - toll road to Gramaisalm until you reach the parking area for Bärlahner

  • from Munich on highway A 8 direction Salzburg to exit Holzkirchen - Tegernsee - Achenpass - Achenkirch - Maurach - Pertisau - toll road to Gramaisalm until you reach the parking area for Bärlahner

  • by train, descending at Jenbach railway station; check the ÖBB schedule here , then change to Achenseebahn for Pertisau




  • Route Overview

    There are two normal routes to Schaufelspitze, both of them are off-trail and unmarked mountaineer routes:

    1. Northwest ridge: UIAA grade I, starting from Haglhütten, mostly off-trail route, some bushwacking, more bushwacking if you miss the cairns for the dwarf pine zone traverse

    2. Traverse Schaufelspitze - Bettlerkarspitze: grade II, long, you have to climb Bettlerkarspitze (UIAA grad III - one part) first

    3. Western rockface : grade IV, from Bärlahnersattel, difficult to find



     
    Schaufelspitze
    Northwest ridge scramble
    Schaufelspitze
    Upper northwest ridge
     
    Schaufelspitze
    Northwest ridge view to Gamsjoch


    The southwest rockface of Schaufelspitze is a gem for good climbers. Some routes:

    1. Sitz des Zeus: VIII+ / IX-

    2. Götterfunken: VIII



    For more detailed information please refer to:

    Bernd Eberle, Peter Mair, Mike Rutter, und Ralf Sussmann
    Kletterführer Karwendel: Alpine Ziele & Klettergärten incl. Martinswand
    Panico Alpinverlag
    1. june 2004

    Red Tape & Accommodation

     
    Schaufelspitze
    Schaufelspitze and (left) bold Sonnjoch


    Red Tape


    Schaufelspitze is part of the “Alpenpark Karwendel”, an important and strictly protected national park.

    There is no entrance fee for the park but many regulations to follow.

    There is a National Park Information Center at Hinterriß. Information panels, starting at the parking area of Engalmen, show some interesting features of the Alpenpark Karwendel.

    Accommodation


    Camping is not allowed within Alpenpark Karwendel.

    Motorhomes and caravans are tolerated at the parking area of Engalmen.

    Food and lodging can be fount at

  • Alpengasthof Eng

  • Engalmen

  • Hinterriß

  • Pertisau

  • Maurach

  • Gramaialm



  • Maurach and Pertisau offer campgrounds, too.

    Mountain hut

  • Plumsjochhütte




  • Gear & Mountain Condition

     
    Schaufelspitze
    Schaufelspitze and upper northwest ridge


    Schaufelspitze is a summer and autumn hike. The normal route from Hagelhütten is an off-trail scramble, the traverse from or to Bettlerkarspitze require climbing abilities up to grade II / III.

    Be aware that the rock around the summit is bad and loose (with the exception of the south / southwest rockfaces with the climbing routes) and that belaying on the northwest ridge or on the connecting ridge to Bettlerkarspitze is not possible everywhere.

    For the climbing ascents from Bärlahnersattel or Bärlahnertal you need full climbing gear.

    Current Weather:


    Maps & Guide Books

     
    Schaufelspitze
    Schaufelspitze and Sonnjoch in deep winter



    Guide Books


    Heinrich Klier, Fritz März, und Walter Klier
    Karwendelgebirge. Alpenvereinsführer alpin: Ein Führer für Täler, Hütten und Berge.
    Bergverlag Rother
    2005

    Bernd Eberle, Peter Mair, Mike Rutter, und Ralf Sussmann
    Kletterführer Karwendel: Alpine Ziele & Klettergärten incl. Martinswand
    Panico Alpinverlag
    1. june 2004

    Maps


    Alpenvereinskarte
    Karwendelgebirge, Mitte
    Scale 1 : 25.000
    Deutscher Alpenverein
    February 2008

    Alpenvereinskarte
    Karwendelgebirge, Ost
    Scale 1 : 25.000
    Deutscher Alpenverein
    December 2005

    Images