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Sciatica - 5.10d, 6 pitches

Sciatica - 5.10d, 6 pitches

Sciatica - 5.10d, 6 pitches

Page Type: Route

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Object Title: Sciatica - 5.10d, 6 pitches

Route Type: Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10d (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 6

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
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Page By: MtnMagic

Created/Edited: Jun 17, 2009 / Jun 17, 2009

Object ID: 522194

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Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Sciatica is a six pitch sport climg in Heart creek, the popular sport climbing area near Lac des Arcs, about 15 kilometeres east of Canmore. Apart for the two initial pitches that go at 5.4, it is quite sustained with the four following pitches in the 5.10 range. It has several quality hard pitches which will test both your delicate vertical face climbing skills as well as your overhang pulling abilities.

Getting There

If driving from Calgary take the Lac des Arcs exit, take the overpass across the Trans-Canada Highway and get on the eastbound Trans-Cyouanada. Drive a few hundred meters to just past he first creek that flows below the highway (Heart Creek). Park here on the South side of the road. Hike South along the trail which follows Heart Creek until below a large 200m high steep wall rising on your right across the creek. It is situated between the SUMC buttress and Blackheart crags as name in the "Sport Climbs" guidebook. Cross the creek and locate the bolts that follow the first pitch.

Route Description

P1 and P2 could be considered "approach" pitches. They can be combined as one long and easy pitch. Just follow the line of bolts to below the roofs where the route steepens considerably. (5.4)

P3: follow bolts into the first overhang. Overcome this by moving L and using a crack. Then follow the bolts over a second, slightly tless difficul overhang to easier ground and shortly the anchor (5.10d) 
Sciatica P3

P4: Steep and technical climbing leads to a steep and imposing roof which is climbed on good holds to reach lower angled terrain. (5.10d) 
Sciatica P4

P5: Climb up a corner, move slightly right and climb the face above. The sequence through the face can feel quite awkward. (5.10b)

P6: A traverse left along a good ledge leads to balancy climbing on prickly rock and then to a small overhang which is the final obstacle before reaching the top. (5.10d)
Rappelling Sciatica

Essential Gear

One dozen quickdraws and enough biners and slings to clip the anchors and belay should do. All anchors are bolted and set up for rappel. A 60m rope is preferred to make rappels more comfortable.

External Links

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