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Scrambles on Kismet

Scrambles on Kismet

Scrambles on Kismet

Page Type: Album

Object Title: Scrambles on Kismet

Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing, Hiking, Informational, Scenery, Panorama


Page By: Liba Kopeckova

Created/Edited: Oct 7, 2010 / Jun 12, 2011

Object ID: 668443

Hits: 3428 

Page Score: 85.36% - 20 Votes 

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Kismet is one of the Colorado 13ers (mountain over 13,000 feet high). It is a rarely climbed peak, and the actual highest point is hard to identify from the Yankee Boy Basin. Kismet is more like a cluster of peaks with very loose rock, several deep couloirs, and tons of scree (very loose scree). I attempted twice to summit the highest point, but never reached it. I guess I can try some more :).

Kismet as seen from Sneffels
Kismet as seen from the top of Mt. Sneffels

My first attempt: we started from the Lavender Col (the Col between Mt. Sneffels and Kismet), which was a wrong choice. We scrambled around, and by the time we figured out our way, we had to leave. (we were rushing for a wedding in Montrose that evening). Participants: Duchess, my boss from work and Michael Covington.

My 2nd attempt was to ski this peak and avoid the scree. But we chose the wrong snow couloir and by the time we reached the top, it was too late to change. The snow became too soft, and we were burying our legs up to our thighs in a deep wet snow. Again, it is hard to identify the highest point from Yankee Boy. Do not underestimate this peak (much more difficult compared to neighboring fourteener Mt. Sneffels.) Participants: Dan

I was not able to find a route description in any of my books or on-line. So, I wanted to go up and figure it out on my own. I have seen so many times a trail going up from the Lavender Col towards Kismet, and thought it can't be difficult, but OOPS - it was rather complicated. I believe that the best way is to go directly up from Wrights Lake.

Guide to the Colorado Mountains does not give much description. Kismet is the cluster of points directly north of Wrights Lake and 0.5 miles east-southeast of Sneffels on the range crest. From the top of Dyke Col, climb west over and around a couple of false summits to the base of the main needle. The SJM (=San Juan Mountaineers) also suggested a route straight north from Wrights Lake, directly to the southeast side of the summit. There is a likelihood of rope protection being needed on top.
This is copied from the above book. I believe that the route from Dyke Col is very complicated one. I have been to Dyke Col, and up to that point it is very easy, but going over the "couple of false summits" requires a lot of exposure on a very loose rock. I think my 3rd attempt will be directly from Wrights Lake.

Kismet 13,694 feet = 4174 meters

Images from the first scramble

Kismet slopes from the Lavender Col
Kismet as seen from Lavender Col
taking rest
Taking a break
West peaks of Kismet
One of the many towers on Kismet
the best hiking buddy
Brave Duchess
Traversing from Sneffels to Kismet
Duchess posing with Kismet behind her
getting desperate
One of many couloirs
my boss
My boss
The Old Man
Crazy route finding
Another scramble
I've seen a better trail
no, don t fall Tom
Don't look down!
numerous couloirs
And another couloir
Kismet side towers

Ski images

Skiing down Kismet
Dan coming down
Hike up
Climb up with skis on your back
Another false summit
And another Kismet tower
The lunch is served
The lunch is served
Taking turns
Taking turns
Ski Descent Kismet
Taking a break
Main Kismet summit in the back
Snow banks
Drive into Yankee Boy

External Links

Colorado High Peaks



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Viewing: 1-6 of 6    

yatsekWhat a chossy COuntry


Voted 10/10

Pondering over the scrambling grading scales recently, I came to think they lack what seems to be a key factor: the chossiness. What would you say?
Posted Oct 8, 2010 4:24 pm

Liba KopeckovaRe: What a chossy COuntry

Liba Kopeckova

Hasn't voted

I would say that the mountain is getting smaller every day - from all that rock falling down. Thank you, Jacek.
Posted Oct 8, 2010 6:03 pm

yatsekRe: What a chossy COuntry


Voted 10/10

Haha Liba, take good care so that you won't follow all that rock - unless you prefer the Siberian style, to the very end.
Posted Oct 8, 2010 6:23 pm

Liba KopeckovaRe: What a chossy COuntry

Liba Kopeckova

Hasn't voted

wow!!!! That is increadible... we should go there... I just need to convince a few guys to go with me, so I can step on their heads while climbing - are you in?

Thanks for the link...really interesting
Posted Oct 8, 2010 10:35 pm

yatsekRe: What a chossy COuntry


Voted 10/10

Have you watched the last quarter of the video yet?
Posted Oct 9, 2010 4:22 am

lcarreauRe: What a chossy COuntry


Voted 10/10

I watched the last quarter of the video. (I liked the music!)

Colorado is actually a long way from Arizona, and Arizona has
more rocks than Colorado and Utah combined.

At least red rocks, that is. Rock on, Jacek !!!
Posted Sep 10, 2011 11:02 pm

Viewing: 1-6 of 6