OverviewKismet is one of the Colorado 13ers (mountain over 13,000 feet high). It is a rarely climbed peak, and the actual highest point is hard to identify from the Yankee Boy Basin. Kismet is more like a cluster of peaks with very loose rock, several deep couloirs, and tons of scree (very loose scree). I attempted twice to summit the highest point, but never reached it. I guess I can try some more :).
My first attempt: we started from the Lavender Col (the Col between Mt. Sneffels and Kismet), which was a wrong choice. We scrambled around, and by the time we figured out our way, we had to leave. (we were rushing for a wedding in Montrose that evening). Participants: Duchess, my boss from work and Michael Covington.
My 2nd attempt was to ski this peak and avoid the scree. But we chose the wrong snow couloir and by the time we reached the top, it was too late to change. The snow became too soft, and we were burying our legs up to our thighs in a deep wet snow. Again, it is hard to identify the highest point from Yankee Boy. Do not underestimate this peak (much more difficult compared to neighboring fourteener Mt. Sneffels.) Participants: Dan
I was not able to find a route description in any of my books or on-line. So, I wanted to go up and figure it out on my own. I have seen so many times a trail going up from the Lavender Col towards Kismet, and thought it can't be difficult, but OOPS - it was rather complicated. I believe that the best way is to go directly up from Wrights Lake.
Guide to the Colorado Mountains does not give much description. Kismet is the cluster of points directly north of Wrights Lake and 0.5 miles east-southeast of Sneffels on the range crest. From the top of Dyke Col, climb west over and around a couple of false summits to the base of the main needle. The SJM (=San Juan Mountaineers) also suggested a route straight north from Wrights Lake, directly to the southeast side of the summit. There is a likelihood of rope protection being needed on top.
This is copied from the above book. I believe that the route from Dyke Col is very complicated one. I have been to Dyke Col, and up to that point it is very easy, but going over the "couple of false summits" requires a lot of exposure on a very loose rock. I think my 3rd attempt will be directly from Wrights Lake.
Kismet 13,694 feet = 4174 meters
Images from the first scramble
External LinksColorado High Peaks
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