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SE Couloir
Route

SE Couloir

 
SE Couloir

Page Type: Route

Location: Montana, United States, North America

Object Title: SE Couloir

Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.4 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 5

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: the fargoan

Created/Edited: Aug 7, 2006 / Aug 21, 2006

Object ID: 213630

Hits: 2463 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Approach

Approach from Beehive Basin trailhead. Once at the lake, hike (off-trail) towards the base of the main buttress. When you reach the boulderfield at the base of the main buttress, hike towards the right to reach the entrance to the SE Couloir.


Route Description

 
SE Couloir
 

 
East Ridge
 

 
The Crux
 

 
SW Couloir
 

The routes starts in the large couloir right of the main buttress. Climb on solid rock along the left side of the couloir for 50-60 meters on 4th and easy 5th class terrain. Some climbers may not rope up at all in the couloir, but if you do, there is plenty of opportunity for belays and protection.











From the top of the couloir, begin the traverse along the east ridge towards the summit. As with alot of alpine climbs, the route options seem to be infinite. Staying on the spine of the ridge and dropping only slightly to the left or right of the spine, will get you past the difficulties.














This is mostly roped 4th class terrain with a few crux moves at 5.0-5.4(YDS). Four short pitches will allow for comfortable belays and no run-outs. You will most likely find the crux moves on a windowsill ledge followed by a short crack to regain the ridge on the 4th pitch. Once back on the spine of the ridge, a short scramble will get you to the summit.










Descend via the SW Couloir route. Locate the obvious couloir on the southwest side of the summit. Down-climbing or repelling will get you to the junction of a west-facing couloir and a notch in the summit ridge. Go left through the notch by scrambling up 5 meters and then descend into the couloir which takes you to the base of the main buttress.

Essential Gear

A light rack (3 or 4 nuts, 3 cams, 3 or 4 24"-48" slings), an axe and crampons in early/late season and a 50m or 60m rope will work fine.

Images

The East RidgeDown the East RidgePanoramic view from the lake...SE CouloirSW CouloirBeehive Peak from Beehive...Approaching the summit wall...
East Ridge TraverseEast RidgeBeehive General Route OverviewBeehive East RidgeThe Crux