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SE Face: Krahl-Meier/Variation

 
SE Face: Krahl-Meier/Variation

Page Type: Route

Location: Region Metrópolitana, Chile, South America

Lat/Lon: 33.7442°S / 70.0866°W

Object Title: SE Face: Krahl-Meier/Variation

Route Type: Alpine ice/rock route

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: Alpine D+/TD-, 60-70° ice, mixed/5.6-5.8 rock, poorly protectable

Grade: IV

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Ski Mountaineer

Created/Edited: Jul 22, 2005 / Feb 15, 2006

Object ID: 165940

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Approach

Your starting point is Baños Morales at the end of the Cajon del Maipo valley. From here you can already see Cerro San Franciso and Cerro Morado. Trek into the Park to the foot of the face to the Laguna Morado at about 2430 m/7970 ft. Pitch your tent around here.
Look around - at a couple of places there are water hoses for campers, quite convinient.

Walking time: Around 2 hrs

Route Description

This description is for the Krahl-Meier route

Climb up the lower part of the wall towards the rocks beneath the serac zone (30° snow).
Variations are possible here, as long as you climb towards the seracs. A bit below the seracs the difficulties start - mixed climbing with short stretches of about 60°. When you get to the seracs you can either:

1. climb to the right up to the left of the seracs (original route). This way you will gain the hanging glacier and the big glacier ramp.

2. continue slightly to the left, continuing on the variation up the ramp with mixed terrain. ramp until you bail out on a little crest. Here you have to descend to you right to gain the hanging glaicer and the big glacier ramp

One the ramp the terran eases, to a low 20-30° on the lower parts, and steepens up further up. Here is a good place to bivaouc/camp if you intend to split the tour into two days.
The ramp is a glacier and has crevasses - rope up!

At the top of the big glacier ramp, continue slightly to left up the 70° ramp, where you will also encounter 5.8 climbing. A final exposed 50° snow/ice slope will lead you to the summit.

Descent: Via normal route to the NW. Be prepared for a long hike back to San Gabriel!

Best time: both winter and summer ascents are possible; however, winter/early spring are recommended due to better ice conditions and less stone fall!

Essential Gear

General winter climbing equipment
Ropes - I recommend 2 half ropes
Ice crews, 5-6
Set of stoppers
Ice tools
Crampons for ice/mixed terrain


Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

The routes through Cerro San...