ApproachYour starting point is Baños Morales at the end of the Cajon del Maipo valley. From here you can already see Cerro San Franciso and Cerro Morado. Trek into the Park to the foot of the face to the Laguna Morado at about 2430 m/7970 ft. Pitch your tent around here.
Look around - at a couple of places there are water hoses for campers, quite convinient.
Walking time: Around 2 hrs
Route DescriptionThis description is for the Krahl-Meier route
Climb up the lower part of the wall towards the rocks beneath the serac zone (30° snow).
Variations are possible here, as long as you climb towards the seracs. A bit below the seracs the difficulties start - mixed climbing with short stretches of about 60°. When you get to the seracs you can either:
1. climb to the right up to the left of the seracs (original route). This way you will gain the hanging glacier and the big glacier ramp.
2. continue slightly to the left, continuing on the variation up the ramp with mixed terrain. ramp until you bail out on a little crest. Here you have to descend to you right to gain the hanging glaicer and the big glacier ramp
One the ramp the terran eases, to a low 20-30° on the lower parts, and steepens up further up. Here is a good place to bivaouc/camp if you intend to split the tour into two days.
The ramp is a glacier and has crevasses - rope up!
At the top of the big glacier ramp, continue slightly to left up the 70° ramp, where you will also encounter 5.8 climbing. A final exposed 50° snow/ice slope will lead you to the summit.
Descent: Via normal route to the NW. Be prepared for a long hike back to San Gabriel!
Best time: both winter and summer ascents are possible; however, winter/early spring are recommended due to better ice conditions and less stone fall!
Essential GearGeneral winter climbing equipment
Ropes - I recommend 2 half ropes
Ice crews, 5-6
Set of stoppers
Crampons for ice/mixed terrain