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SE Ridge, Normal

 
SE Ridge, Normal

Page Type: Route

Location: Wallis, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.92773°N / 7.78522°E

Object Title: SE Ridge, Normal

Route Type: Mountaineering

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: PD, II, 50Âș

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Diego SahagĂșn

Created/Edited: Aug 27, 2002 / Sep 23, 2013

Object ID: 156878

Hits: 4937 

Page Score: 73.59%  - 5 Votes 

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Approach

The base of the climb, Klein Matterhorn (3,820 m) is approachable by cableway.

Route Description

From Klein Matterhorn (3,820 m) go down to the saddle (3,796 m) in front of Breithorn plateau and then head E on the broad track towards the Breithorn. Instead of climbing up, continue Eastwards over the Breithornpass (3,824 m) and along under the S side of the Breithorn, below the crevasse zones of the upper Ghiacciaio di Verra. Pass below the rock island with the Cesare e Giorgio Rossi Bivouac (3,750 m) and the slope to the easily reachable Schwarztor. Continue under the rocky SW spur of Pollux and move round and up to the ZWillingsjoch (Passo di Verra; 3,845 m; 2-3 hours from the cableway). Now climb the, often icy, steep slope on the left (W) to the loose rocks of the SE Ridge, wich leads very airly to the summit, the last part on steep snow or ice (1 hour from the col).

Essential Gear

Rope for a team, crampons, axe and winter clothes.


Additions and Corrections

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richardpattisonNormal route

richardpattison

Hasn't voted

The normal route is actually the SW ridge (from the Schwarztor) not the SE ridge (from the Zwillingsjoch).



Your route description is copy/pasted from Richard Goedeke's guide which is correct for the SE ridge, however, the guide incorrectly assigns the "normal route" to the wrong ridge.



That has caused some confusion on SP, hence, most of the photos attached to this page are the SW ridge not the SE ridge.
Posted Jul 29, 2014 4:26 pm

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Images

The most difficult sectionHigh On PolluxAbove The CruxBelow The CruxPollux Crux4000 MetersOn the south east ridge
Climbing the fixed ropesFinal summit ridgeThe Down ClimbOn the south east ridgeDescending from summitThe south east ridge from the Zwillingsjoch