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Self Right To Suicide
Route

Self Right To Suicide

 
Self Right To Suicide

Page Type: Route

Location: Patagonia, Chile, South America

Object Title: Self Right To Suicide

Route Type: Big Wall

Time Required: Expedition

Difficulty: VI, A4, 5.10+, 55 degree ice

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Craig Peer

Created/Edited: May 26, 2004 / May 26, 2004

Object ID: 161054

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Approach


From the Estancia Cerro Paine, take the trail that leads first south, then west up the Rio Ascencio valley to the base camp used by the Italians in 1963 during their first ascent of the South Tower. From here one must shuttle loads up the valley past the linga trees, and then up a giant moraine to the glacial lake below and to the east of the Towers. Hike up a snow gully to the left of the cliffs at the head of the lake. A long and sometimes steep slog up the glacier leads to campsites on top of a 900' rock outcropping below the East Face of the South Tower.

Route Description


This route starts on the Swiss route on the East Face ( see description under " In The Eye Of The Hurricane " route ), then climbs left around the biggest roof, then straight to the summit ( more info to follow as it becomes available - see signature photo also ).

From Alpinist Magazine # 7 -

" Over 6 weeks, we shuttled 600 pounds of gear to the high camp at the base of the East Face ( one week ), fixed the initial pitches ( one week ), finished the route ( two weeks ), and successfully descended and traveled home ( one week ). We climbed a direct line on the face, starting on the Swiss route on January 23rd, and then following through the biggest untouched roof on the wall to the high summit , which we reached on Feb. 12th. We named the route " Self Right To Suicide " ( VI, A4, 5.10+, 55 degree ice, 3300' ) to reflect the attitude one needs to climb such a thing. We salute the earlier parties, both those that succeeded and the ones who only attempted lines on this face ". Chris Belczynski

Climbers Chris Belczynski, Bodziu Kowalski and Wojtek Wiwatowski - Poland. 1st ascent - 2004.

Miscellaneous Info


More information to follow as it becomes available. In the mean time, see Alpinist Magazine # 7, page 89.

Gear


Gear needed would include big wall aid gear, technical ice gear, 4 season camping gear. See the book " Mountaineering in Patagonia " for more advise.

Images

Torres del Paine from Torres...Torres Del Paine.<br />
 Photo...The East Face of the South...