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Shirley getting ready for Off...

 
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Shirley getting ready for Off...
Shirley getting ready for Off Tempo - a 5.10a OW carck on Arrington Columns (Lower Gorge's East Side). The generous wide carck rack is hanging at the base (right side). Don't let the snow fool ya, the conditions were very pleasant.......mid-30s and not much sun (Dec. 10, 2005).

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hkutukHard Core!

hkutuk

Hasn't voted

30 is low on basalt but at least there is some sunshine which was probably short lived in the gorge. Wow I see a mighty arsenal of gear in the background, how much of it did you use?
Posted Dec 12, 2005 6:00 pm

rpcRe: Hard Core!

rpc

Hasn't voted

Thanks Haydar.

The day did not go as planned mostly due to weather...



The rack I took up this (pretty short) line is on the right. Placements went something like this: #3.5 Camalot (kinda optional near the start), #5 Friend, #5 Camalot, another #5 Camalot, #3 Camalot (optional on easy ground right before chains). Most people I think walk a single #5 up (#4.5 would probably do as the second large piece).
Posted Dec 12, 2005 6:14 pm

DigglerRe: Hard Core!

Diggler

Hasn't voted

I don't get it. The 2 Big Bros on the L-hand cluster are both blue, but different sizes. Is it just the angle? The larger one seems like it should be gold.
Posted Dec 12, 2005 6:42 pm

rpcRe: Hard Core!

rpc

Hasn't voted

Dirk,

they're the same size - weird visual effect I guess. Don't ask why I brought them there (not useful on 99% of stuff in the Gorge).
Posted Dec 12, 2005 6:49 pm

DigglerRe: Hard Core!

Diggler

Hasn't voted

Wow, you're the fastest draw in the West, Radek- I almost got your reply before I posted! Does your computer IM you when someone posts something, or are you really on that much (or did I have lucky timing?)??! ;^)



From what I've experienced, Big Bro's aren't that useful on Sierra granite either. The only time I've tried to place one so far (the green one, in what looked like a perfectly parallel crack), I couldn't get the thing to fit. After a few minutes of fiddling with it, I decided to stop wasting my energy & just did the pitch w/o pro' (it was only 5.5). Seems like Utah sandstone would be the best place to use them.



Good for you (& Shirley) that you're out there climbing even when it's virtually winter!
Posted Dec 12, 2005 6:58 pm

rpcRe: Hard Core!

rpc

Hasn't voted

Thanks Dirk.

Slow day....I guess :)



Yeah, I also found Big Bros to be kinda sketchy. Only used the blue ones twice around Moab. These are larger than the largest Camalot or Friend and fit in that nasty regime before you're able to squeeze into the crack & chimney. Even when I got them to stay put, placements seemed questionable at best......Honeymoon Chimney route on The Priest had 2 placements like that in a row protecting about 30+ feet of climbing. Got to the top of the pitch and puked my brains out (fear??). Almost felt as though I should NOT have wasted my energy placing them!
Posted Dec 12, 2005 7:08 pm

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rpcSubmitted by rpc
on Dec 12, 2005 2:11 pm

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Object Title: Shirley getting ready for Off...