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Shockley's Ceiling

Shockley's Ceiling


Page Type: Route

Location: New York, United States, North America

Object Title: Shockley's Ceiling

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Difficulty: PG

Number of Pitches: 4

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: divnamite

Created/Edited: Oct 23, 2009 / Nov 12, 2009

Object ID: 566776

Hits: 2601 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Some people love this climb, I personally don't find it all that great except the roof (the only crux on the entire route).

Pitch 1: There are different way to start this, but most people just climb up the chimney to a ledge for belay (5.4, PG, 50').

Pitch 2: From the right side of the ledge, move up right and pass a right facing corner. Once pass the corner, keep going to another corner. The start following the natural line on the face to an alcove below an obvious ceiling (shockley's). (5.5, PG, 120')

Pitch 3: Follow the crack under the ceiling, take a deep breath, pull the roof. You can and should belay right above the roof so you can hear your belayer. This one takes some mid size cams. (5.6, PG, 50')

Pitch 4: From belay stand, move up and right to pass the corner, climb the overhand and follow the crack to the top. A lot of people actually think this crux is harder than the roof. (5.5, G, 50')

Shockley s Ceiling
Pitch 1, climb up the chimney and set up belay.

Shockley s Ceiling
Pitch 2, a little bit confusing because the chalk marks. just remember to shoot for the right facing corners.

Shockley s Ceiling
Pitch 3, feel free to sew this one up, it takes midsize cams.

Shockley s Ceiling
Pitch 3, up an over, nothing to worry, big jugs all over the place.