Overview
The group of Mieguszowieckie Szczyty consists of three peaks, namely (from east to west):
Mieguszowiecki Szczyt Czarny (Vychodny Mengusovky stit) (2410 m asl)
Mieguszowiecki Szczyt Posredni (Prostredny Mengysovsky Stit) (2392 m asl)
and Mieguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki (Vel'ky Mengusovsky stit) (2438 m asl).
Mieguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki is a popular climbing mountain, situated on the south of the Morskie Oko Lake. Northern face is about 1000 m high, with very difficult and long routes. Southern face, on the Slovakian side is about 500 m high, also with many beautiful routes. Eastern face, about 400 m high also has interesting and long routes - see Surdel przez Kiszkanta.
First ascent: Ludwik Chalubinski, Wojciech Roj, Maciej Sieczka, 28 July 1877,
First winter ascent: Ernst Dubke, Alfred Martin, Johann Breuer and Johann Franz, 13 February 1906
Getting There
From Zakopane take bus to Palenica Bialczanska. From the last stop you will have 9 km walk to the Morskie Oko Lake - there is a chalet and camp for climbers. From the chalet the N face of Mieguszowiecki Szczyt Wielki is well seen. From the lake take red marks to Rysy, on the north bank of Black Lake take green marks to Mieguszowiecka Pass. After about 45 minutes you will reach the base of eastern face.
Northern face you may reach straight from the southern bord of Morskie Oko
From the Slovakian side of Tatras you may reach Poprad (by plain, train or car) and then Strbske Pleso. Here take the path or road to Popradske Pleso. This is the most comfortable situated Slovakian hut (in fact a mountain hotel).
Red Tape
National Park! Camping neither on Polish nor Slovakian side prohibited (the only camp site in the area is that of PZA (Polish Alpinisme Association). See Kasprowy Wierch for detailed national park rules.
When To Climb
July - September, February - April
Camping
Camping only on camp site of Polish Alpine Association (the price is about 15 zlotys per night [1 USD = 4 PLN).
Mountain Conditions
See e. g. Zamarla Turnia
On-line info
Zakopane Online
- in english
(+48)(18) 20-15-560; 20-14-731 - Tatra Volunteer Rescue, they also have a site, but only in Polish:
TOPR - Tatra Volunteer Rescue
Vysokie Tatry (Slovakian info)
Maps
Very good Slovakian maps edited by VKU
Images
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