Overview Torre di Brenta is the one on the right side of the pic | A huge tower growing up from Sfulmini glacier : the highest summit of Sfulmini Chain.
Its summit ridge is long and thin and ends with two sharp edges that divide the mountain in two walls that look like showels.
A big legde crosses the wall in the mid. (can get it on its east side using the "Bocchette Centrali" ladders)
A fine, amusing normal route allows a good experience for beginners and an easy (PD) coming down.
North wall has many big chimneys and, of course, many wings that make it look like a colonnade.
South-west wall is similar but more steep and compatc with its red rock.
South-east wall is a yellow leaning out wall.
|
Routes overviewNorth wall rock always very fine
| | normal route - 300 m - PD - amusing and various
Leonardi - 300 m - D sup - the finest on this side
north pillar (Alimonta) - TD - amusing
Benedetti - 120 m from the ledge - AD inf
Graffer edge - 120 m from the ledge - AD sup - amusing
Castiglioni - 120 m from the ledge - chimney climbing - D
Adang chimney - 250 m - AD - classic !
Treptow chimneys - 250 m - AD - classic ! |
East edge
Castiglioni-Pisoni - 350 m - D sup - very fine and amusing, at half way you must wait till hikers (on the Bocchette Centrali) pass away to go on :)
South-east wall
Armani - 220 m - TD - you climb in leaning out rocks
South wall
Garbari - normal route from Bocchetta Alta degli Sfulmini - Ad - very fine
South west wall
Detassis-Rizieri - 180 m - TD sup - wild environment
Detassis-Giordani & co. - D sup (first pitch 5°, hard and wet) fine and smart
West ridge
Armani - 300 m - D - one of the finest - difficult to approach (see When to Climb)
some pics of the normal route
Getting Therefor all climbs the starting point is Rifugio Alimonta
you can get it starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m)
by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei, path 318, 2 h walk to Brentei
then 1 more hour to reach the Alimonta Hut
All climbs can be started as well from Rif.Brentei
Red Tapenatural park
When to Climbjuly - september
in august and september, due to gletscher shrinking, approaching the rocks of the north wall and WNW ridge can be very difficult or impossible without ice-axe and crampons that is an out of mind thing in this site :)
out of season not recommended - refuges are closed and the site is quite unhospital at night
CampingSant' Antonio di Mavignola
if you use a tent near the Brentei hut (a lot of wonderful meadows there) you'll get no problems at all :)
Images
|
