Overview
" In ancient times Mount Disgrazia was called Beautiful Peak. Its slopes were covered with luxuriant and rich pastures. The shepherds were always looking at this beautiful mount. Relying on its abundance they became too pruod and arrogant and refused to lodge a tired and starving wayfarer. The traveller, God in person, raised his hand and cursed the mount. The mount was burnt out up to the top while the shepherds become blind. From then the mount was called "Disgrazia". The shepherds gave the former name of Mount (Beautiful) to another peak to be comforted and to venerate the Glory of Lord "
Monte Disgrazia is the highest mountain of the Val Masino Alps, situated south of the Bernina Group. Five glaciers and five wild ridges form one of the most impressive mountains of the alps that shows equal beauty from all sides. Climbing Monte Disgrazia is an ambitious trip, demanding endurance and experiences in climbing.
The first ascent was done by englishmen Sir Leslie Stephen and Thomas Kennedy with swiss guide Melchior Anderegg in 1862. Their route over Preda Rossa glacier and the north west ridge is the easiest one and remained the normal route.
Getting ThereThere are 4 valleys.Valle Sissone,Valle Ventina, Valle di Mello and Val Masino.All of them can be reached by cars and buses.The nearest town is Sondrio in Valtellina,(trains and buses from milan).Itinerary: By car from Sondrio to the village of Ciappanico and then by foot following the path leading to the Capanna Bosio (3 hours- possibility of overnight stay) and then going on in direction of the Capanna Desio (2936 m, overnight possibility, 5 hours about from Ciappanico). Reached an hollow about 300 m below the Capanna Desio, called "Fossa della neve" go up along the small valley opening to the right in direction of the Disgrazia mount. The point of research can be reached in 6 hours about from Ciappanico. Knowing very well the paths it is possible to go there sparing respectively 1 - 2 hours through the Lago di Chiesa or the Mount Rolla.ItineraryThe mineralogical area at the bottom of the valley can be easily reached in 40 minutes from the car park just after the village of Chiareggio ( " Pian del Lupo"). It is possible to reach the high part of the valley - more interesting for the researches - following two paths on the left hydrographic side: either going along the bottom of the valley and climbing up on the morainic slopes just below the bench; either following the path to the Capanna del Grande, ( starting to go up at the beginning of the valley), till the Sissone Alp and then turning to the left to reach the high part of the moraine through the saddle ( searching area between 2600-3000 m. height. Walking's time: 3 -3.30 hours from Pian del Lupo.
Refuges/HutsCampin is permitted in any area.
-Ref. GERLI&PORRO Alpe Ventina (m. 1965) tel. 0342/451404
-Ref. BOSIO Alpe Airale (m. 2089) tel. 0342/451655
-Ref. DEL GRANDE&CAMERINI Cresta di Vazzeda (m. 2660) tel.0342/556010
-Ref. PONTI Alpe Preda Rossa,places 85 Tel. 0342-640138
-Biv. TAVEGGIA Sentinella della Vergine (m.2894)
-Biv. OGGIONI Colletto Disgrazia (m.3151)
-Biv. RAUZI Cima Disgrazia (m.3640)
-Biv. ODELLO GRANDORI Passo di Mello (m.2992)
When To ClimbRecommended period: july-september (very good also as ski touring excursion)
Difference in heigh: +1800 m.
Time: hours: 7 to climb
Difficulty level: Ascent on high mountain. Experience and good training or an alpine guide are required.
Equipment: Rampons, axe, rope, slinger, snap links, spare rope.
clothes: High mountain sportwear.
How to climbRoutes from Valmasino
-"Normal route",Northwest ridge (PD/PD+)
-"Canalone Schenatti" (AD)
-"Via Baroni" Southwest ridge (II°)
-"Direttissima" (AD+ IV°)
-SW Couloir,(Rydz) (AD/AD+)
Routes from Valmalenco
-"Corda Molla",North ridge (AD/AD+)Related Page
-Nort wall,(Albertini,Schenatti 10/07/1934) (TD/TD-)Related Page
-"Via degli Inglesi",North Wall/WNW Ridge(Ling,Raeburn 08/08/1910) (D/D-)
Mountain ConditionsBelow,the best weather web-site for the local area:
www.aineva.it
www.arpa.it
www.waltellina.com
Images
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