April 20, 2008 The National Park Service is presently updating and generally messing around with the Glacier National Park web site.

Many of the links are changing and while they are working, many of the links do not work properly.

So, many of the links in this page do not work. We are waiting for the NPS to finalize their work before trying to update links.

Until then, try starting here at the webcam page which has been one of the more reliable recently GNP webcam page and try to navigate from there.

Or, try this non-government information site: Glacier National Park Information

Overview

Mount Siyeh from the southwest.

Mount Siyeh is located about four miles northeast of Logan Pass in Glacier National Park. It is the fifth highest peak in the Park, one of just six peaks in the park over ten thousand feet in elevation. The peak has a rather unimpressive hump shape viewed from the south, but has a much nicer profile from the west and east. The north face is one of the highest rock faces in the Lower 48, and to the best of my knowledge, has been climbed only two times.

The mountain was named by G. B. Grinnell for a Blackfeet Indian, "Sai-yeh," who was described as being so recklessly brave that after a time none of his fellow tribal members would go with him on raids against the enemy. In Blackfeet "Sai-yeh" means Crazy Dog, or Mad Wolf.

Views of Mount Siyeh

From the south.

From the north.

From the northwest.

Getting There

View to Siyeh Bend.

Glacier National Park is located in northwestern Montana. Going-to-the-Sun Road is the main scenic route through the Park and the way to Logan Pass and Reynolds Mountain. It is not kept open during the winter. Closing in the fall and opening in the spring depends on snow depth and conditions. Opening can be as late as July.

Detailed information about the road, including spring opening information: GTS Road Information

The two most common routes on Mount Siyeh (South Slope & Piegan Pass) are most easily approached via the Piegan Pass Trail starting at Siyeh Bend about 3 miles east of Logan Pass on the Going to the Sun Road.

Piegan Pass can also be reached from Many Glacier, but this adds 4 miles (one way) to the hike.

Logan Pass Area Trail Map

The West Couloir is best approached via the Piegan Pass Trail from Many Glacier.

Mount Wynn is climbed from the Cracker Lake Trail starting at Many Glacier.

Many Glacier Area Trail Map

Routes Overview

GUIDEBOOK: A CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO GLACIER NATIONAL PARK; J. Gordon Edwards

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS:

Because of the nature of the rock, there are special considerations regarding climbing in Glacier National Park, and grading systems unique to the Park have been developed. Please see this Fact Sheet for further details:

GNP Rock & Grading Systems

South Slope from below.

South Slope : Class 2 and 3 with care in route finding. About 4,200 feet of vertical gain from Siyeh Bend over five miles about half of which is on trail.

At Preston Park, one takes the trail toward Siyeh Pass. At a good place, leave the trail and climb the eastern most green strip of vegetation through the talus above the trail then work diagonally to the climber's right up a series of stream beds moving to a more easterly one as severe difficulties are encountered. Once above the cliffs, climb directly up the talus slopes to the summit.

The Glacier Mountaineering Society rates the climb: III(3)MM

Piegan Pass : Class 2 and 3 with care in route finding. About 4,200 feet of vertical gain from Siyeh Bend over about 7 miles, 4.5 of which is trail (about 11 miles with 8.5 of trail from Many Glacier).

From just east of Piegan Pass, ascend a goat trail toward the saddle east of Cataract Mountain. At the cliff barrier on the ridge, traverse southeast to a class 3 couloir and climb it back to the ridge top which is then followed without difficulty to the summit.

West Couloir : Not recommended in ascent, but apparently a great 1,500 foot scree run down when free of snow. It brings one down to the trail on the Many Glacier side of Piegan Pass in the area of Morning Eagle Falls.

Mount Wynn (traverse) : A 5 to 5.5 mile high ridge traverse from the summit of Mount Wynn to Mount Siyeh. Class 2 and 3 including the climb of Mount Wynn.

North Face.

North Face : An extremely difficult climb, rated Grade V or VI 5.9, A2. This is probably the most difficult climb in the Park. It was first climbed 13, 14, & 15 September 1979 by Jim Kanzler and Terry Kennedy on their fourth attempt. They reported 25 or 26 hours of actual climbing with 25 belayed pitches plus some 1,000 feet done third class.

Details appear in Volume 1 Number 1 (Jan. - June 1980) GOING-TO-THE-SUN MAGAZINE and the JOURNAL OF THE GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING SOCIETY, No. 36, 2005.

The face finally got a second ascent 14 & 15 August 2005 by Ben Smith and Justin Woods. They followed roughly the same line as the first ascent party free climbing the entire route which they rated 5.10+ R with much loose rock and poor protection.

Red Tape

National Park Entrance Fees apply in Glacier National Park: Current Park Entrance Fees

A complete set of Rules and Regulations governing Glacier National Park can be accessed on the What's New Page. It is a lengthy PDF file.

Registration for day climbs in Glacier National Park is recommended, but not mandatory.

When To Climb

South Slope Route

June, July, August, September, and even into October depending on the amount of snow and the road closures.

Camping

There are numerous campgrounds available within Glacier National Park:

GNP Campground Status and Information

There are also many campgrounds just outside the Park on both the west and east sides.

Camping on the Blackfeet Reservation is restricted to established campgrounds only.

Accomodations and Campgrounds on the Blackfeet Reservation

Mountain Conditions

The NPS What's New web page has several live cams and links to updates on local conditions, including a weather report link:

Glacier Park What's New Page

External Links

Glacier Mountaineering Society

Mount Siyeh from the west.
Photo by saintgrizzly

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