Overview
Beautiful Emerald Peak from the south slopes of Iowa Peak
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson Emerald Peak (13,904 ft) is nice little jewel of a mountain in the heart of the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness in central Colorado. A comment on the tattered summit register asks “why Emerald?” as to suggest the name of the mountain might be inappropriate. Perhaps due to the lovely lakes nearby the mountain earned its name. Perhaps when the beautiful tundra slopes that surround Emerald are in full splendor, as seen here in this excellent photo by SP member peakwolf, the name becomes obvious. There’s no doubting that Emerald is a beautiful mountain, and for whatever reason you may choose to climb it, Emerald Peak will not disappoint. The solitary experience of the summit, surrounded by miles of pure wilderness is more than a just reward for your effort.
Rugged Iowa Peak from Missouri Mountain
Digital photo by Aaron Johnson Iowa Peak (13,831ft) rises to the north of Emerald Peak and is a mountain loaded with character. The east and west faces sport cliffs and gullies, loaded with loose rock and defying access or easy climbing. The north and south slopes are gentle tundra and talus wonderlands that serve as a bridge for climbers looking to visit a variety of peaks in a given day.
Indeed there is much variety to be found here, as to the north of Iowa Peak rises the popular fourteener, Missouri Mountain. From Iowa’s summit, Missouri is a colorful character with shades of orange, red, brown, yellow and white. From this vantage, the true ruggedness of Missouri can also be appreciated. Together, these three peaks form a type of “triple crown,” loaded with color and character. The included route description has been dubbed as such. This full day’s climb is one of the most satisfying experiences to be had in the Sawatch Range, and a surprise variation, offered as a challenge here, could make this one of the most exciting loop possibilities in the area.
For an expedient visit this deep into the wilderness, the Triple Crown route is as quick as can be for a day hike. Please note that for successful execution of this route, a 4WD vehicle with high clearance is a necessity. Several other route options involving backpacking and overnight stays are discussed below.
Whether for color, character, solitude, new vistas or summits, a visit to these mountains is a refreshing experience. Placing them on your “to-do” list is something you won’t regret, and the effort involved is paid back handsomely in an unforgettable day in the Colorado Rockies.
Getting ThereFour wheel drive & high clearance required!
From Highway 24, south of Leadville or north of Buena Vista, turn west on Chaffee County road 390. Take this oiled dirt road past Clear Creek Reservoir, where the oil stops and the dust and washboards begin. Go 2 miles past the parking area for the Missouri Gulch Trailhead, which is the popular access for the area fourteeners. At just past 2 miles, there will be a dirt road on your left that goes through a collection of rustic cabins due south. This “settlement” is called Rockdale. The road becomes 4WD as you drop down toward Clear Creek.
At a fork, go left, fording a couple of deep pools. Two crossings of Clear Creek must then be executed. Late summer is the best time to try this crossing, as high spring run-off could pose a significant hazard to you and your vehicle in the spring, and the road will likely be open all the way to the trailhead later in the year as well. The second crossing is shallower, but the road climbs steeply once you’re out of the water. Approach to the left in a low gear and your vehicle will walk right up this obstacle. The rest of the road has a few moments where rocks can be skirted around, but is generally an easy road for experienced drivers.
The road will cross a vast deposit of rock and sand and will appear to end abruptly as you emerge from the willows. Fear not and forge onward all the way to the end of the road to a clearing at a barb wire gate and park here. This spot may be full of vehicles, as the area is popular with 4WD enthusiasts and the trailhead is also the beginning of the popular West Ridge route for Missouri Mountain and East Slopes access for Huron Peak.
Route OptionsPINE CREEK TRAIL
If you’re looking for a long backpack and camping trip of possibly epic scale, this is the option you’re looking for. From Highway 24, turn west on Chaffee County road 388. This turn off is approximately 12 miles north of Buena Vista. Go south on 388, staying left. Going to the right and climbing a hill, the road gets rough. 4WD vehicles can proceed a bit further to the trailhead, but cars should park at the sharp turn. There is a $1 access fee to cross private ranch land. From Missouri Basin, the mountains are accessed via tundra slopes to a broad saddle between them. For Emerald Peak, you’re looking at a 25 mile round trip minimum. For other mountains from this approach, including the popular fourteeners, add much more. The epic scale of this Colorado wilderness outing suddenly becomes apparent!
MISSOURI GULCH
Emerald and Iowa Peaks can be climbed via the popular Missouri Gulch trail, which is the closest and fastest access for the area fourteeners. The route goes over Elkhead Pass between Missouri Mountain and Mount Belford, traversing the vast Missouri Basin toward Iowa and Emerald. The mountains are accessed via tundra slopes. Follow the instructions in the GETTING THERE section, above to get to this trailhead. 13 miles round trip.
CLOHESY LAKE
Use the same approach in the GETTING THERE section. At the trailhead, follow the trail south along Clohesy Lake and expect to do some bushwacking as the trail may be sketchy at times. The trail gradually climbs to the Continental Divide, where Pear Lake to the south can be seen and Emerald Peak will be to the northeast. Emerald’s West Face is a jumble of outcrops, talus, scree and a general mess, but a route up a steep scree slope from the divide is feasible, after which you climb north to the summit.
The Pine Creek and Missouri Gulch options both intersect the Triple Crown route described on this page at a broad saddle between the two mountains. The Triple Crown Route can also be executed from the Missouri Gulch side via any of the popular routes used to climb Missouri Mountain.
The approaches suggested here can be augmented with the very good book “Colorado’s Thirteeners-From Hikes to Climbs” by Gerry & Jennifer Roach.
Red TapeThere is an additional $1 private access fee to the Pine Creek approach. Private property is skirted at the trailhead for the Triple Crown route. Please respect property owner rights.
When To ClimbLate spring through fall is the best time to attempt the Triple Crown route discussed on this page, as well as any of the other routes covered in the ROUTE OPTIONS section.
Winter ascents of Iowa or Emerald are not recommended or practical (unless you’re a super being!). This distance for a winter outing is daunting and the avalanche potential on the Triple Crown route, as well as any of the other options discussed above, is almost a sure bet. Recent avalanche fatalities in the Missouri Gulch area attest to the danger of climbing in this area in winter conditions.
CampingCamping possibilities are numerous on all three approaches. Popular camping is just above timberline in Missouri Gulch. Camping at the end of the 4WD road just below Clohesy Lake is very popular, as well as along the road past the wash area. Clohesy Lake, once private, offers a few camping possibilities.
Many nice camp sites are available along Chaffe County road 390. The price is dust and noise, as this is a busy road during climbing season.
Mountain ConditionsSawatch Range Forecast
GOES Western US Satellite Image
The mountains are in the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. Expect primitive conditions and count on your route finding abilities should the trail you choose become faint or non-existant. The Triple Crown Route and other routes described here are considered Class 2 or 3, depending on your route choices. Considerably rougher and exposed terrain is available, but generally expect tundra, talus, loose rock and scrambling during the summer.
Snow accumulation will prohibit access to all of these routes during the winter and early summer. Late spring conditions will feature persistent snow on Emerald, Iowa and Missouri, so come prepared with the right equipment if access to the trailhead is even possible.
Missouri Mountain, part one of the Triple Crown Route, is heavily traveled by fourteener peak baggers and the standard Northwest Ridge route’s condition illustrates this profoundly. Expect steep, hardpacked scree on the ridge line, particularly 100 yards from the summit. The “crux move” (see route and photos) can be a serious proposition to the inexperienced, and a tumble here would be nasty.
Trail maintenance has been slight, and this is apparent not far beyond the trailhead as the route climbs steep slopes above Clohesy Lake. Expect fallen trees, steep switchbacks and inconsistent trail conditions. Once in the basin west of Missouri Mountain, the trail fades to nothing and it’s a free for all. If left unchecked by the Forest Service, many routes will soon thread their way to the west ridge in a tapestry. Expect steep tundra mixed with talus and scree unless you stay on the ridge proper.
Descent from Missouri to Iowa is over Class 2 rock and hardpacked scree. Conditions on Emerald and Iowa are primitive in nature. There is no trail, just lots of tundra, talus and boulders. Snow patches should be expected to persist well into late summer but should not bar execution of the route.
Expect crowded conditions on Missouri Mountain. Iowa and Emerald Peaks are also visited regularly, but at a far less frenetic pace. In contrast to the fourteener, solitude and quiet will likely greet you on Emerald Peak.
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