Mount Kazbek

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Caucasus
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Mount Kazbek

Page Type:	Mountain/Rock
Lat/Lon:	42.67587°N / 44.51368°E
Activities:	Mountaineering
Elevation:	16512 ft / 5033 m
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Attention! Georgia / Svanetia rubbery alert 2021

Everyone considering going to Georgia for such reasons as backpacking or hiking or mountain climbing, please be advised!

The wave of crimes in which the tourists are the victims is rising in Georgia. There were at least 4 cases in the region of Becho village in Svaneti during the last two months. Very alarming is the reaction of the Georgian police. Tourism is the only source of income for the whole region (Svaneti do not produce anything except the tourist service). Nevertheless, local police neither investigate crimes, nor inform the new visitors about danger. The information of crimes is concealed by police, and that provokes the new, more serious crimes.

Preparing to climb Mount Ushba our team got into that accident in late September 2021. We were totally robbed right at the base of Ushba route, while sleeping in the Base Camp. The thieves got everything - climbing gear, clothing, cameras, documents, leaving a group almost naked. The total impact of the rubbery exceeds 30.000 Euro. Local authorities said they are sorry -it was all the government support for the victims. The reaction of the Georgian police was totally surprising - they have literally refused to act. The excuse for them (as the police officially state) was that the tourists provoked the locals by leaving their stuff unprotected outside of the tents (but the most valuable things like cameras, money and laptops were taken from the car). Also the police apply to the fact that such an accident happened in the area for the first time - which was a lie as we found a couple of days later. We were the forth group robbed in the area during the summer season 2021 (also we have got info about two more incidents in which the thieves were spooked by tourists). This could be only the tip of the iceberg as we got info from the open sources and related forums, not from the officials.The conclusion of our story is quite alarming. The Georgian police service revived and reformed by Michael Saakashvili in 2005 was quite effective for the 10 consequent years facilitating the development of the convenient tourist infrastructure. But at the moment, this police structure got corrupted and is getting back to its primary pre-reforming condition — which was a totally useless and corrupted structure.

Such a state of things is absolutely unacceptable and dangerous. Tourism in the country could work only on one main and uncompromising condition of the personal safety of every tourist coming to Georgia.The situation we recently discovered in Georgia in the summer 2021 makes the overview very different from the previous years. Now it becomes dangerous to travel in Svaneti, where the tourists are not protected by the government structures anymore.With a lot of pain, as I really love Georgia, I have to declare the following: until all the crimes against the tourists in Georgia are efficiently investigated and the criminals found and punished, the tourism in Georgia should be reduced to minimum or totally banned.

Overview

Kazbek (5033 m), is one of the highest and most beautiful and most visited mountains of Caucasus. It is located in the East part of Central Caucasus, on the border of Russian and Georgia. As Elbrus, Kazbek also is extinct volcano which is clearly appreciable from its conic form with distinctive remains of ancient gigantic crater on its south face. Technically Kazbek is not difficult for climbing although fisically it is quite chellenging as the height of the mountain is above 5000m. The Normal route is PD, mostly glacier walking, except the crux which is 100 m of easy ice climbing in the couloir below the summit (not steeper then 40 deg.) Kazbek is very popular mountain for climbing specially because of its simplicity and convenient access.

There are many tales, legends and interesting historical facts about this mountain. On the altitude 3800 m in the cave which entrance is in the upper part of 80 m rock, there is ancient monastery Betlemi (Bethlehem). In chronicles "Kartlis Tshovreba" this monastery was quoted as a depository of sanctuary and church treasury. Its monks got in by the long iron chain. Other legend refers to some more distant times when after the quarrel in Heaven because of the stolen fire Prometheus was chained to the rock. This rock was Kazbek. The most famous place near Kazbek is the ancient monastery of Saint Trinity Sameba which was built in XIV century on the high hill just above the Kazbegi village. Mikhail Lermontov mentions this peak in his "Hero of our Time" and in his famous poem Mtsyri.

"Where merge Aragva and her twin, Kura and fast rush onward, in Times past, a lonely cloister stood; By fields, a dense and o'ergrown wood Encircled 'twas.... A wayfarer, Toiling uphill, will see what were A gate and gateposts once and, too, A church.... To-day, no incense to Its round dome coils, nor do a prayer The humble monks chant, hoarse-voiced, there. Alone, forgot by death and men, A bent old greybeard, denizen Of these remote and desolate hills, Over the ruins watches still And daily wipes the dust that clings To tombs, of which the letterings Of glories past speak and of things Of like note. Of a tsar one such Tells who by his gold crown was much Weighed down, and did of Russia gain The patronage o'er his domain. Twas then God's love descended on The land, and Georgia bloomed, and gone Her old fears were and old suspense: Of friendly bayonets a fence Did, bristling, rise in her defence."

Most likely it refers to the place called Djvary which is close to Tbilisi, but beautiful anyway!

As far as I know, it is not sure whether Prometheus was chained to Mkinvartsveri/Kazbek - most early Greek authors refer to a peak in the Caucasus or "Mt. Caucasus", not specifying which mountain is meant. Mt. Kazbek is a likely candidate though, considering it´s shape.

However, a similar (but different in certain aspects) legend indeed takes place on Kazbek - the one of Amirani, one of the legends of Georgian mythology. He was imprisoned on Mt. Kazbek after challenging God (who had given him great powers) himself.

Author: Peter Schoen Date: Jan 20, 2006 12:30 PM Mkinvartsveri is the 3rd highest peak in Georgia after Shkhara (5068 m) and Djanga/Djangi-Tau (5058 m), and the

6th highest in the Caucasus (and Europe) - after Elbrus (5633 m) Dykh-Tau (5204 m) Koshtan (5151 m) Shkhara (5068 m) Djangi-Tau (5058 m)

(not counting the Elbrus East Summit and Djangi-Tau West Summit)

Climbing history

The name Kazbek was given to this mountain by Russians who inhabited the Northern side of the Main Caucasian Mountain Range in the memory of one member of the communist government. The native name of this mountain is Mkinvartsveri - in translation from Georgian it means The Mountain With Ice Head..

SP member Corax writes: another name of the mountain is Mkinvari which means The Ice Mountain

The first time Kazbek was climbed by Duglas Freshfield in 1868. Other significant successful ascension of Kazbek is the climb of famous Georgian scientist G. Nikoladze in 1923 from which begins the history of Georgian mountaineering.

Getting There

Approach from Tbilisi is still more convenient also the check point with Russia (Verkhniy Lars) is open now - during the summer season it is a total mess with crossing the border as the huge crowd normally collected on the Russian side. From Vladikavkaz you can get a taxi to Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) village.

If you go from Tbilisi you can take a taxi or regular bus to Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) village (150 km). There are many comparably good hotels, hostels and guesthouses in this village and many possibilities for lodging. Other way is to camp somewhere near the old monastery (1,5-2 hours walk up from the village or taking a 4x4 taxi there). From the monastery go uphill by marked clearly visible trail to Bethlemi Hut - former meteostation which now works as mountain refuge. The place is relatively comfortable (comparing with tent), equipped with stationary gas and some kind of shop, where you can by beers and snacks, but often overcrowded during the season. From here begins the alpine part of the Kazbek route.

Author: Peter Schoen Date: Dec 29, 2005 10:12 AM Beware that this border crossing is often closed to foreigners. Get infos about the current situation if you want to head from Kazbek to Russia or from Russia to Kazbek (e.g. if you want to combine Kazbek and Elbrus).

AlexClimb:2018 - there is no problem for border crossing for foreigners if you have visa. The only problem is very high traffik and long wait on the border

The Lonely Planet Thorn Three is a good place to ask - http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/, and also the embassies.

Red Tape

2018 no climbing regulations until now. No permits, no fees. Camping is allowed anywhere, if you camp close to Meteo (Bethlemi Hut) you are to pay 10 lari per tent. Upper camping is also quite popular and free of charge (30 min from the Hut). Please take down all the garbage after you.

When To Climb

Kazbek is possible to climb through all the year but the most convenient time is summer (June-September). Great possibilities for ski touring during the winter months.

Camping

Camping is allowed anywhere. Bethlemi was the only hut on the route, but in 2018 another hut in the middle way to the glacier is constructing.

SP member Pulsar writes: Key to meteostation: This is a word of caution for climbers who plan to climb Kazbek. During peak season, the hut "Meteostation" is almost permanently populated with expeditions. You will not have difficulties to sleep there then. However, outside the main season, it is possible that you find the hut closed. The key is kept down in the village Kazbegi, an the keeper lives along the trail uphill to the Trinity church, at the rim of the village. It will be wise to inform down in Kazbegi prior to your trip if the hut is open to avoid unpleasant surprises.

Mountain Conditions

As any lonely standing high mountain, Kazbek is a subject for sudden weather changes which normally are good to bad starting from morning and getting worse and worse after the midday time. In winter time the weather is more stable. The weather is comparable better during the full moon periods. We do not recommend attempting Mount Kazbek without a Guide or GPS - the weather changes are quite sudden, the routes are quite long. To get lost is very easy job on the flat glacier with a lot of deep crevices.

External Links

MCS AlexClimb organized commercial tours and technical climbs in Georgia (Elbrus, Kazbek, Ushba, Shkhara, Koshtan and Dykh-Tau)

MCS AlexClimb organized expeditions to Kazbek from Georgia MCS AlexClimb organized expeditions to Kazbek from Russia (Ossetia)

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-7 of 7

Ski Mountaineer - Jun 6, 2008 2:23 pm - Hasn't voted

Meteo St. ownership and costs

Be aware that the station is now privatly owned (and is getting improved), with an administrator/guardian being at the station for the spring, summer and fall months, starting in late March. Price for a night is currently 20 Lari (about 7.5 Euros), pitching tents around the station will cost you 10 Lari.

Rigi - Apr 26, 2014 4:35 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Meteo St. ownership and costs

hello! Is the hit also open beginning of October? Would an ascend then be possible or too late? many thanks and best regards, André

raimonds - Aug 26, 2014 7:06 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Meteo St. ownership and costs

Probably it is. We were there a few years ago very late September - it was open. And if the weather is fine, it is not too late. We had the station all to ourselves. Only one of our group made it to the top, but it was not because of the weather but because we only had two days to climb and it proved too much to the rest.

yfcz - Oct 6, 2016 8:37 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Meteo St. ownership and costs

In 2016, price for sleeping inside of the Betlehemi hut is 35 Lari per person. There is also a spring (with delicious water) along the trail inside of the Gergeti village. See the map: https://mapy.cz/s/17Khb

mightyboa - Jun 14, 2010 7:01 am - Hasn't voted

Approach from Russian side

Currently (May 2010) approach from Russian side is again possible, both for Russians and foreigners. However as everywhere at Russian side of Caucasus ridge, you will need a border pass and it takes approximately 1 month to make it, so do apply for it in advance!