April 20, 2008 The National Park Service is presently updating and generally messing around with the Glacier National Park web site.

Many of the links are changing and while they are working, many of the links do not work properly.

So, many of the links in this page do not work. We are waiting for the NPS to finalize their work before trying to update links.

Until then, try starting here at the webcam page which has been one of the more reliable recently GNP webcam page and try to navigate from there.

Or, try this non-government information site: Glacier National Park Information

The Classic Calendar Picture from Many Glacier(the NE)
Photo by csmcgranahan

View back to Many Glacier from the summit.

Overview

From the SW. Gould's place on the Garden Wall.

Mount Gould is located about 3 miles north of Logan Pass in Glacier National Park. It is the highest point along the Garden Wall, which rises above the Going-to-the-Sun Road. From the west, the mountain is neither very impressive nor photogenic. It just appears as a broad high portion of the Garden Wall. However, from the east, Mount Gould is very impressive rising above Lake Josephine and Grinnell Lake. From this angle it is possibly one of the most photographed peaks in Glacier National Park, appearing on almost every calendar of Park scenes.

The broad west face has a surprisingly easy route - if care and patience are exercised. The northwest ridge is somewhat more difficult, and extremely difficult routes exist on the shear northeast and east faces.

From the north.

The views from the summit are especially rewarding because of Mount Gould's central location and the fact that no larger peaks block the view of any large parts of the Park.

The mountain is named for G. R. Gould of Santa Barbara, California, a hunting companion of G. B. Grinnell who was one of the leading figures in the establishment of Glacier National Park.

The first recorded ascent of Mount Gould was made via the West Face Route in 1920 by Frank B. Wynn, Harry R. Horn, Henry H. Goddard, and party.

Getting There

From the southeast.

Glacier National Park is located in northwestern Montana. Going-to-the-Sun Road is the main scenic route through the Park and the way to Logan Pass and the west side of Mount Gould. It is not kept open during the winter. Closing in the fall and opening in the spring depends on snow depth and conditions. Opening can be as late as July.

Detailed information about the road, including spring opening information: GTS Road Information

A map of the Logan Pass area: Logan Pass Area Map

Access to the north and east sides of Mount Gould is through the Swiftcurrent Valley accessed via the Many Glacier road. This road is also not maintained during the winter, but opens much earlier than Going-to-the-Sun.

The status of the Many Glacier Road can be checked at: Park Road Info

A map of the Many Glacier area: Many Glacier Area Map

Views from Mount Gould

To the north.

To the south.

To the southeast.

Red Tape

National Park Entrance Fees apply in Glacier National Park: Current Park Entrance Fees

A complete set of Rules and Regulations governing Glacier National Park can be accessed on the What's New Page. It is a lengthy PDF file.

Registration for day climbs in Glacier National Park is recommended, but not mandatory.

Routes Overview

GUIDEBOOK: A CLIMBER'S GUIDE TO GLACIER NATIONAL PARK; J. Gordon Edwards

SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS:

Because of the nature of the rock, there are special considerations regarding climbing in Glacier National Park, and grading systems unique to the Park have been developed. Please see this Fact Sheet for further details:

GNP Rock & Grading Systems

Edwards describes four routes on Mount Gould.

FROM THE WEST:

Access to both routes from the west is either along the Highland Trail north from Logan Pass or via a short cut to the Highland Trail from the parking area just above the Weeping Wall.

West Face.

1) West Face Route, Glacier Park class 3, GMS III(3)MM

This is the easiest route to the summit and ascends the broad west face of the mountain. The distance to the start is about 4 miles along the Highland Trail or shorter but with more elevation gain via the short cut from the road. The main difficulty is getting through the cliffs of the diorite sill low on the mountain . The way through is fairly obvious from below, but not from above. Once above the diorite sill, a multitude of route variations exist with nothing harder than class 3 if care is taken.

NE Face.
NW Ridge is right skyline. (from the notch)

2) Northwest Ridge Route, Glacier Park class 3 with one class 4 pitch, GMS III(4)MM

This route leads to notch on the north side of the mountain above Gem Glacier and from there up the NW Ridge. There is one class 4 cliff very low on the route then nothing more difficult than class 3 if one is careful. It is very easy to stray from the easiest route onto class 4 & 5 cliffs.

FROM THE EAST:

3) Northeast Face Route, Glacier Park class 5

Access to this route is via the Grinnel Glacier trail. The route up the face is complicated and extremely exposed.

4) East Face Route, Glacier Park class 6 (?)

A route on the east face is vaguely described from a letter to Edwards quoted in the climbing guide. You can read it and decide if you believe it or not before taking on this tremendous face.

When to Climb

Foreshortened view of West Face with snow.

June, July, August, September, and even into October depending on the amount of snow and the road closures.

Mountain Conditions

The NPS What's New web page has several live cams and links to updates on local conditions, including a weather report link:

Glacier Park What's New Page

Camping

There is no camping at Logan Pass.

There are numerous campgrounds available within Glacier National Park:

GNP Campground Status and Information

There are also many campgrounds just outside the Park on both the west and east sides.

Camping on the Blackfeet Reservation is restricted to established campgrounds only.

Accomodations and Campgrounds on the Blackfeet Reservation

External Links

Glacier Mountaineering Society

Mount Gould from the north. The Northeast Face faces the camera.
The Northwest Ridge is the right skyline.(from the notch)
Photo by BISHLER

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